What exactly is a Henley shirt?
25.5.2022
Translation: Katherine Martin
The fashion world is brimming with terms – the meaning of which are sometimes anything but obvious. With this in mind, I’m now putting together a glossary of sorts, demystifying things such as mules, paper bag pants and duster coats. Let’s start off with the Henley shirt.
«Do you want anything in particular for your birthday?», I ask a friend who’s due to celebrate yet another year of being on the planet. «Nothing spectacular, but I’d like a really nice Henley shirt.» Erm, sorry?! The fact I’ve been in fashion journalism for more than ten years and yet still don’t have the faintest idea what she’s on about is quite unsettling. She obviously clocks the huge question marks behind my eyes, and grins: «I only just found out what they’re called, too. They’re long-sleeved tops with a button strip on the front.» I take a look. It’s said we never stop learning, and in this moment, I realise that to be correct.
Later, on my way home, I start googling. And it’s true: after I type «Henley Shirt» into the search bar and press Enter, my phone screen fills with simple shirts, each with a narrow strip of buttons coming off a rounded collar. Aha. So that’s a Henley shirt. It’s very modest birthday wish, but who am I to deny her it? I quickly find my favourite one (organic cotton, fine rib, white) and with a couple of clicks, it’s been ordered. But I’m not done with the Henley shirt topic yet. Because I’m wondering ...
Why exactly is it called a «Henley» shirt?
Unsurprisingly, the answer leads me to England. Henley-on-Thames in Oxfordshire, to be precise. Here, people do what riverside city folk have always done: they row. At some point, they even go professional: in 1839, the first Royal Regatta was held in Henley-on-Thames. It’s obvious that sleek jerseys would be needed for an event like this sooner or later. And where were they conjured up from? From the depths of the underwear drawer. What people wore down below during the 19th century was, in fact, destined to become sportswear. There’s no collar flapping around your ears and annoying you in windy or bad weather. Instead, you’ve a little strip of buttons at the collar, which lets in a pleasant breeze.
Source: Instagram @henleyroyalregatta
That’s how this sleek yet functional top climbed the career ladder from undershirt to sports- and workwear. But it didn’t land a major promotion until a century later. According to legend – or designer Ralph Lauren’s biography, a Lauren buyer was offered the undershirts by a British retailer early in 1970 – and immediately saw their previously untapped potential. The shirts were purchased, spruced up and named after their birthplace. The Henley shirt as we know it today was born.
What is it that makes a Henley shirt?
The two most important features of a Henley shirt are its lack of collar, and narrow strip of two to five buttons. These days, the rest comes down to personal preference. The sleeves can be long or short, the neckline round or slightly v-shaped, and the material can be cotton, jersey or silk. And the best improvement? Women have, of course, been riding the Henley wave for a long time now, too.
In the «fashion lingo» series, I regularly try to unravel some of the mysteries of communication. Ever feel lost in translation? I'm sure I can help – just drop your question in the comment section.
Laura Scholz
Senior Editor
Laura.Scholz@digitecgalaxus.chAlways in the mood for good hits, great trips and clinking drinks.
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