Is Lelit Bianca really just for baristas?
19.11.2018
Translation: machine translated
Video: Stephanie Tresch
They are complex, take a very long time to heat up, and you have to readjust the settings as soon as you buy another coffee. Lelit Bianca' has even made this its advertising slogan. Will I still manage to get it to work?
"If you are not a real barista, keep away from me!", reads the large print on the Lelit website. I'm not a barista. In my life, I've had to make coffee ten times with a sieve-holder machine, knowing that the grind was already perfectly set. So I'm left with a machine that looks like the driving position of a steam locomotive with only a vague idea of all it's capable of doing in theory.
Two boilers and a miracle of precision
Without going into technical detail, the Bianca has two boilers, one for coffee and one for steam. It is therefore possible to froth milk and extract coffee simultaneously. The paddle at the top of the percolation unit is the real attraction of this machine. It allows you to regulate the pressure during extraction. Thanks to the display, you'll always know at what pressure the coffee is coming out of the machine. The strength of the espresso depends on this parameter in addition to other variables such as the coffee grind, extraction time and temperature.
Lelit has thought of everything. Thanks to the small on-board computer, the temperature can be set to the nearest degree. You can also set the pre-infusion time electronically. All you have to do is indicate in seconds how long the coffee should be wet in the sieve and how long it should 'swell'. On other machines, these operations are carried out manually. Practical detail: the total extraction time is displayed at the same time.
Man versus machine
One thing is immediately obvious on installation: the finish of the Lelit Bianca is of exceptional quality. Nothing rattles, nothing feels cheap. This is evident down to the smallest detail. The water tank, for example, can be fitted at the back, or to the left or right of the machine. The hot water and steam nozzles are insulated to prevent you from burning your fingers when frothing milk. The wooden elements are elegant without being overdone. Quite simply, the machine is an eye-catcher in any kitchen. But does it live up to its promise?
Let's face it, I'm not a barista. No wonder the first espresso was a complete failure. The coffee is too diluted, I put too little powder in the machine. Next try. This time, the coffee was too bitter and the crema lacked thickness. I tried using a slightly finer grind. The espresso improves, the crema gradually appears, but I'm not really satisfied...
250 grams of coffee later...
How many espressos have I consumed? I can't remember. My heart is racing, I feel like I'm under a glass bell. My mouth is dry. Have I made the perfect espresso? I don't know, I can't make out anything. Can you get coffee poisoning? According to this calculator, I consumed "clearly too much caffeine". I wouldn't have needed the calculator to know that. Tachycardia? Check. Headache? Check. Sweating? Re-check. I've gone too far.
Next time I test a coffee machine, I'll ask the experts for help. Lelit is decidedly right: this machine should be reserved for baristas. Or as this anonymous user said here in his comment: "You're going to have to do a training course. Extraction is getting more complex... I need this machine."
Overview
Yes, I need this machine. Wouldn't it be better to start with a smaller, more economical model and learn how a sieve holder machine works that way? Perhaps. The price of the Lelit Bianca is at the high end of the range of machines of this type offered by Galaxus. In any case, the budget for this type of equipment is relatively high. Why not invest a little more up front? I've made up my mind: I'll save up a few extra months to buy the Lelit Bianca. The savings will also have to be enough for barista training so I can really use it.
Simon Balissat
Teamleader Editorial
Simon.Balissat@digitecgalaxus.chWhen I flew the family nest over 15 years ago, I suddenly had to cook for myself. But it wasn’t long until this necessity became a virtue. Today, rattling those pots and pans is a fundamental part of my life. I’m a true foodie and devour everything from junk food to star-awarded cuisine. Literally. I eat way too fast.
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