Background information
Why does espresso taste so much better in Italy?
by Martin Jungfer
"Franzl", the Viennese café that delights us on Lake Constance
9.10.2020
Translation: machine translated
Novels were written, cabaret programmes were created and important negotiations were concluded in Viennese cafés. In 2011, these establishments became part of UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage. The first international member of the Viennese Cafe Club is... in Romanshorn.
You read that right, Romanshorn, this small Thurgau town of 11,000 inhabitants on the shores of Lake Constance. According to Wikipedia, its tourist attractions include three churches, old warehouses, the former port customs house, and a private collection of sports cars in the halls of the former Federal Alcohol Board. The town is home to the "Wiener Kaffee Franzl" (in German), an establishment that is part of the very select club of Vienna's best cafés. Its name refers to Franz Joseph I, a member of the House of Habsburg who ruled the Austro-Hungarian Empire for 68 years, from 1848 until his death in 1916.
In October 2016 - one hundred years after the emperor's death - Tatjana and Norbert Mahr created a little gastronomic paradise. Since then, many food critics have been full of praise for it. The year it opened, the "Franzl" was immediately included in the "Who is who im Thurgau" list of influential people and establishments in the canton. This honour was repeated in 2018. So he's never been short of attention. Since then, Tanja, Norbert and their team have built up a solid clientele, both in Switzerland and across the border. The people of Romanshorn have learned to cherish Viennese hospitality.
In the tradition of Sacher, Landmann and Ritter
After all, the "Franzl" is a member of the "Klub der Wiener Kaffeehausbesitzer"(in German). This is the only establishment authorised to represent Viennese café culture abroad. Austrian members include such greats as Sacher, Ritter and Landmann. Before joining this exclusive club, you have to prove that you have everything you need to be a Viennese café: a selection of newspapers, hot food served all day or regular cultural events.
A haven of Viennese culture in Switzerland
Norbert tells us that the early days were not all plain sailing for the couple. It was very chaotic, especially the first year. "The people of Romanshorn told us that we were bringing life to their town. But we also had to dig deep within ourselves to find the motivation to keep going," he recalls. The start-up phase was difficult for these new restaurateurs. Norbert, who trained as a pastry chef, certainly brought the necessary know-how to the café, but before opening "Franzl", he worked for a long time as a manager for a textile company, not in pastry-making. He travelled the world for brands such as Puma, Strellson and Navyboot, until it became too intense for him. He stopped and decided with his wife to bring a bit of his native land to Switzerland, in the form of a café.
If the couple run a gastronomic establishment that seems to be successful and if they are even thinking about an extension, it is not because they were lucky, but because they were convinced of their project. Both were born in Vienna. Neither has lost their Viennese dialect, even after many years in Switzerland. Tatjana excels in service and Norbert uses his "incredible ability" to remember customers' names. Many of them are greeted with a "Grüss Gott", and they don't leave without a "Servus", or sometimes even a "Baba" for those closest to them. Newcomers are immediately spotted by a "Grüezi".
A café as a second living room
The typical dialect is just one of the attractions of this venue in the heart of Romanshorn, as a true Viennese café has to offer other amenities. Customers can drink their coffee in peace, with no loud voices or noisy videos on their smartphones. The atmosphere here is relaxed. A variety of newspapers are read here, with the day's edition wedged between two wooden chopsticks for easier leafing through.
"If a customer spends the day with us without ordering anything other than a coffee, that's no problem for us," stresses Norbert Mahr. He tells us that in Vienna, cafés are the Viennese people's second living room. Or, as the Austrian writer Alfred Polgar put it: "In a Viennese café, people sit who want to be alone but still need to be in society". This is typical of Austrian humour.
The "Franzl" also offers classics, such as kaiserschmarrn, goulash, tafelspitz, marillenknödel, schnitzel or sachertorte. There's something for everyone, big or small, at any time of day, not forgetting the famous Viennese coffees, of course! They serve brauner, einspänner, mélange or kapuziner. And if you want an even more original drink, order the "Kaffee Sissi", a double mocha served in a glass with coffee liqueur, chocolate and "Schlagobers". That's what we call whipped cream in Austria. The whole thing is accompanied by a glass of water, essential in all Viennese cafés worthy of the name.
The coffee beans come from Liechtenstein
Norbert Mahr had to do a lot of testing before finding the perfect coffee bean for his establishment. He found it at Rösterei Demmel in Liechtenstein. He is quick to point out that Peter Demmel was crowned Austrian Master Coffee Roaster in 2016. Far be it from us to criticise the provenance of his coffee! He prepares his cups of espresso with a large Elektra gold Belle Époque-style machine that sits on the bar and acts as a functional work of art while blending perfectly with the café's decor. A small Manner waffle dispenser sits on the cake counter. A figurine of a Viennese carriage adorns a shelf in the window. The room accommodates two comfortable armchairs; a giant poster shows the Gloriette at Schönbrunn Palace, where Sissi had breakfast.
The "Franzl" obviously doesn't have the dimensions of such a majestic building, but all sorts of celebrations are held here. Even the emperor visits from time to time. Tatjana Mahr, who does her father's make-up, hair and clothes for the occasion, makes her reappearance. She draws on her many years of experience as a hairdresser and her training as a mask maker to bring the monarch back to life and give her customers the opportunity to take a selfie unlike any other.
Header image: A little bit of Vienna in Romanshorn: Norbert and Tatjana Mahr are the owners of the "Franzl" in Romanshorn.
Martin Jungfer
Head of Content
Martin.Jungfer@digitecgalaxus.chJournalist since 1997. Stopovers in Franconia (or the Franken region), Lake Constance, Obwalden, Nidwalden and Zurich. Father since 2014. Expert in editorial organisation and motivation. Focus on sustainability, home office tools, beautiful things for the home, creative toys and sports equipment.
Cooking
Follow topics and stay updated on your areas of interest
Home + Kitchen
Follow topics and stay updated on your areas of interest
Food
Follow topics and stay updated on your areas of interest
2 comments
later