Background information
Products’ second lives can be far more beautiful than their first
by Pia Seidel
The nail alchemist
20.4.2020
Translation: machine translated
Pictures: Thomas Kunz
During our meeting in Paris, nail artist Alex Falba reveals to me that sustainable nail polishes are pure marketing and how we can avoid regular visits to the nail salon.
Paris doesn't mean well with us. When we met nail artist Alex Falba for an interview, it was pouring with rain. The conditions couldn't be worse for photographer Thomas Kunz and me: an outdoor shoot is not an option due to the rain. A quiet spot for our conversation is also out of the question. Next to the hotel where we meet Alexandra, there is a building site where a jackhammer is hammering away in an endless loop. But we don't let this spoil our mood. On the contrary: the lively Frenchwoman's good humour is infectious. No wonder, anyone who can cherry-pick their jobs as a freelancer in Paris has made it on the hard cobbles. But this success is no accident. In our conversation, the short-haired brunette repeatedly emphasises that she has always gone the extra mile in the past. This extra touch sets her apart from other manicurists.
Why do you call yourself "The Nail Alchemist"?
Alexa Falba, Nail Artist: Because I'm actually an engineer. I only trained further after my studies and a job as a consultant at a wine merchant. My knowledge gives me a different perspective on the beauty industry. For me, it's not just about beautifying nails, but also about the ingredients. That's why I choose the cosmetic products I use carefully.
Was there a key moment for this change of direction?
Yes, I was angry (laughs). Very angry. My job as a consultant wasn't making me happy. That's why I rewarded myself with regular visits to the nail salon. The results were only moderately satisfactory. Due to a lack of alternatives - I wasn't living in Paris at the time, but in a French town - I had to find a solution. I didn't want to throw another cent down the nail salon's throat. So without further ado, I researched training centres. Unfortunately, there was no school in France that specialised in nail art. On the contrary, there were only beauty schools where nail art was part of the training. When it came down to it, the students there spent four lessons on it. No wonder the manicurist was so bad. She didn't stand a chance. [[image:34681676 "Before she opened her nail studio, Alex Falba was allowed to rent a hairdressing salon for six months on a trial basis."]]
What happened next?
From then on, I constantly practised my skills through self-study. It often happened that my boyfriend at the time would find me in the living room at three o'clock in the morning, painting my nails. I was lucky that chats emerged 15 years ago. I was able to exchange ideas with like-minded people there. I also went abroad to look over the shoulders of professional nail artists. When I received my first compliments on my hands after about a year of hard work, I took the plunge and opened a nail salon.
Does this salon still exist?
No, after three years it was over. I wanted to go to Paris. I sold my shop and set off without a plan. By chance, I met the French distributor of OPI in the fashion metropolis. He offered me a job as a sales agent with the prospect of an education manager position. I accepted immediately. As I had never worked in the fashion business before, six years later I went freelance and started a job as a session manicurist for campaigns, fashion and beauty ranges and fashion shows for brands including Hermès. [[image:34503719 "Also active on Instagram: Alex Falba not only works for campaigns and photo series,...",34620827 "...but also backstage at Fashion Week. Images: Instagram account @alexfalba"]]
You're a jack of all trades - is there anything you haven't done yet?
Yes, my own nail polish line. I've only developed these for other brands so far. If a brand wants to benefit from my expertise, I can develop everything for them from A to Z.
Do you dream of that?
No, that would be fatal. You have to invest a lot at the beginning. Then you sit on your products and have to get rid of them again. On top of that, you have a warehouse and lots of employees to pay. Fortunately, I don't need my own line for my ego. On the contrary: I prefer to be creative and do what I love doing.
How difficult is it to find beautiful hands?
It's a crux: there are so many beautiful people and models in Paris. But very few of them have beautiful hands. My definition of beautiful is endlessly long fingers with the right proportions. One person in a thousand has hands like that. A photograph doesn't forgive a flaw. No matter how small. Even a tiny scar or wrinkle immediately catches the eye in a close-up. What's more, beautiful hands are relative. I don't need the same hands for an HP printer campaign as I do for a beauty or jewellery shoot.
Do you have a beauty tip that you would like to share with our Community?Cream your hands as often as possible. This tip is not new, but it is effective. Make sure you use a moisturising cream without silicone. Although silicone feels good on the skin, it has no moisturising benefits. Don't neglect your cuticles either: I recommend the nourishing Abricot line from Dior. A rich nail cream works wonders. If you apply it every evening before going to bed, you can save yourself a regular trip to the nail salon.
Is there a no-go?
I keep noticing that women shape their nails with the wrong file. Many use a model with a heavy grit. The higher the grit, the lower the sanding effect. A coarse metal file will make your nails brittle in the long term. With a "fine model" with 600 grit, on the other hand, you are doing everything right. Then it doesn't matter which direction you file your nails in.
A beauty life hack that you would ban?
I keep hearing that if you dilute a dried-out nail polish with nail polish remover, it will become smooth again. This is ridiculous, as a nail polish remover destroys a polish. Why would you mix it with that (laughs). It might work as an SOS tip, but after that the product is gone and ready for the bin. There are special thinners for this purpose.
Oh, that reminds me of another beauty tip: Women tend to apply a new coat of polish straight after removing nail polish. However, because nail polish remover contains nourishing oils that prevent your nails from drying out, you need to rinse your hands thoroughly before applying a new coat. This way, the polish will last longer.
«There is no such thing as sustainable nail polish. If you want to do something good or green for your hands, you'll have to do without it altogether.»
What are the latest nail trends?
Nail art is back. While the trend was either loved or hated four years ago, this season it's back in a light version. Instead of long nails, we are now focusing on short, filed nails and subtle colour contrasts. That's why the look is now even suitable for everyday wear.
Another trend is sustainability. Cosmetic products are being scrutinised and must not harm the environment. Colour has almost become a minor matter.
Can you recommend a brand or product?Yes, my favourite comes from Japan. "P-Shine" is a "buffing product that cares for your nails. It consists of a clay and beeswax paste that polishes and nourishes your nails. This product is used for manicures in Japan.It annoys me when brands pretend to be green. They are not! Today, almost everything is natural or organic. I work in the industry and I know when I'm being fooled. There is no such thing as "green nail polish". If you want to do something good or green for your hands, you have to do without it altogether.
If someone still doesn't want to give up colour, is there a universal shade that everyone can wear?
Many people claim that this is red. But that's not true. You need flawless hands for this colour as it is unforgiving. Schwarz ist hingegen universell. The non-colour suits every skin tone and can look romantic and rock in equal measure. If black is too dark for you, apply a slightly lighter black-blue as an alternative. I dare you
When I’m not exploring the depths of the sea as an open water diver, I enjoy plunging into the world of fashion. On the streets of Paris, Milan and New York is where I keep my eyes peeled for the latest trends. And I’ll show you how to take them from the catwalk to your everyday life.
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