Background information
My residual love for analogue
by Reto Hunziker
UV sensibility and spray-on clothing: how innovative does fashion need to be these days?
15.3.2023
Translation: Jessica Johnson-Ferguson
Standing out and being a hot topic is no longer an easy task for brands in 2023. So how do they create moments of wow? By fusing fashion and technology. I spoke to innovation researcher Lela Scherrer to find out if these wows are sustainable and might change our idea of what design is.
When I was in sixth or seventh grade, a friend of mine was gifted a swimsuit with fabric that was made to let through UVB rays. In other words, brown skin, no tan lines. I was mind-blown (and a bit envious), but never followed up to see if the one-piece swimming costume delivered. And contrary to my expectations, this innovation, which seemed groundbreaking at the time, has never played a role in my life since.
Fast forward 20 years, and we’ve seen virtual fitting rooms and the first Metaverse Fashion Week. Suddenly, my friend’s swimsuit feels like a cute school experiment. These days, you can join in with all the Fashion Weeks from the comfort of your own home in real time. This allows you to witness how, for example, Coperni clothes are no longer tailored but sprayed on. Or how Japanese brand Anrealage sends designs down the runway that only reveal their colours and prints when exposed to UV light.
Suddenly, fashion is linked to augmented reality, artificial intelligence and blockchains. Is this simply because these things are possible today or are they the result of our being constantly overstimulated and the brands seeking our attention?
«Gadgets that attract media attention and make headlines for three days straight have been around for a long time. What strikes me as more interesting are the innovations that help the industry move forward,» says designer and innovation researcher Lela Scherrer, reflecting on these developments. I’m thinking lab-grown leather, 3D-printed garments and alternative, recyclable textiles. Lela, who’s a Swiss designer based in Basel, tells me how much these innovations are changing the design process: «Usually, you hear about the technology first and then think about what you could do with it. Then, you typically get in touch with an expert in the field and start playing around with ideas together. It’s rare to get this type of idea to the catwalk within one season, because it takes a lot of time and money. Naturally, you can also start with a completely crazy idea and then ask yourself, ‘how do I get there?’ in a second step».
Time and money. This begs the question if these ideas are suitable for you and me. That is, for the average consumer. Lela Scherrer has a clear opinion on this: «Design development tends to happen in the top seven per cent of the pyramid. That is, those individuals who come up with their own designs instead of just copying others. Their ideas tend to trickle down the pyramid quite quickly. Of course, they’ll pop up in a different quality and perhaps with a modified print, style or overall look. But the essence that remains is for everyone.» In other words, for the mainstream.
I’m not sure if I should feel disillusioned and disenchanted, or if it’s just time to take off my rose-tinted glasses. I’m probably too easily dazzled by said special effects. On Instagram and the like, everything always seems so available. Almost like the magic swimsuit back in the day. But we’re probably still miles a wee while away from someone actually spraying a unique dress on my body.
But not to worry. After all, spray-on clothing isn’t particularly sustainable anyway. Also, I haven’t quite figured out what the advantages of a virtual piece of clothing by Balenciaga or Dolce & Gabbana are in real life. And this isn’t boomer talk. Quite the opposite, in fact. With wide, wondrous eyes and throwing likes around like confetti, I’ll continue to follow every innovation and technology – remaining curious to see in what form it will trickle down to my end of the pyramid. Knowing full well that they’re of much greater importance to people like Lela Scherrer, of course. That’s why I’ve got to finish by asking how she sees the future of fashion design and whether you can even view the profession detached from other industries. «Well, that’s the key question. Especially at colleges and universities: what should be taught these days? In my daily work, I can no longer really separate the different approaches. At least in the highly segmented sector, the future will be one of interplay. A marriage, if you like. I’m sure of that.»
Header image: Instagram @elletaiwan
Laura Scholz
Senior Editor
Laura.Scholz@digitecgalaxus.chAlways in the mood for good hits, great trips and clinking drinks.
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