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by Stephanie Vinzens
Ties are conquering the world of women’s fashion – how to wear them right
16.11.2023
Translation: Eva Francis
Once a staple of mainly men’s fashion, the tie has finally found its way into many women’s wardrobes. Here’s how to wear this formal accessory in everyday life.
One accessory in particular caught my eye on the streets of this year’s Fashion Weeks – the tie. Traditionally worn by men, the tie has made its way into women’s fashion over the last few years. One reason for this may be that formal clothing items such as blazers and shirts are currently booming – ties along with them. At the same time, the boundaries between womenswear and menswear are blurring. As a result, many brands are showing both collections in the same fashion show, creating unisex clothing and having male models walk the catwalk in garments traditionally designed for women and vice versa.
Source: Spotlight
Source: Spotlight
Women in ties aren’t an invention of this decade, of course. Film and style icon Marlene Dietrich wore ties back in the 1930s, rock star Patti Smith in the 1970s and Princess Diana in the 1990s. In fact, Diana’s elephant-print tie was even auctioned off after her death for the equivalent of over 4,000 francs. And let’s not forget pop star Avril Lavigne and her iconic tank top and tie combination – which is better off staying a noughties thing.
Ties everywhere at Valentino
While ties may have seemed a bit exotic in women’s fashion in previous decades, they’re no longer an unusual sight. One reason why so many visitors to this autumn’s Fashion Weeks wore ties were the autumn and winter 2023 collections that were presented at the beginning of the year. The tie featured prominently in the womenswear collections of brands such as Alexander McQueen, Dior, David Koma, GCDS and Hermès. Valentino’s «Black Tie» theme included 73 looks – all with ties or tie-like necklines.
Source: Spotlight
Source: Spotlight
Valentino’s Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli was inspired by his 15-year-old daughter. When she went out with her friends one evening, she stole a black suit with a white shirt and black tie from her dad’s wardrobe. «It was amazing to me, because she’d never seen me wearing a suit to the office,» the designer told Vogue. That’s when he realised his daughter didn’t have the same fixed ideas of formal dressing as society. «It was just, she liked it, and it was a new thing to her. In the end, I think that’s the way to approach fashion, as a personal choice of freedom.»
As a result, Piccioli himself took the liberty of placing ties in a new context. He showed them with floor-length shirt dresses, transparent blouses, mini skirts and festive embellishments such as sequins, feathers and ruffles. In doing so, he built a bridge between evening and business clothing. Although there’s more freedom when it comes to interpreting formal dressing and ties these days, there are styling tips to bear in mind.
Source: Spotlight
Source: Spotlight
Tie over collar
I’m not a fan of styling rules. After all, there’s an antithesis to every fashion faux pas. However, I want to put this out there: please always wear ties over shirt collars. Wearing a tie around your bare neck almost always looks like a costume. The shirt can be cropped, see-through or have no sleeves, but you shouldn’t skimp on the collar – even if you’re going for a casual look.
Instead, you can create a classy style clash by combining casual garments such as a biker jacket, jeans or a mini skirt with a shirt. If you’re going for a more relaxed after-work vibe, unbutton the blouse slightly and loosen the tie. In my opinion, the only stylish way to wear a tie with a tank top or T-shirt is to wrap it around your neck like a fine scarf.
Source: Photo: Spotlight
Source: Photo: Spotlight
When it comes to the length of the tie, the general rule these days is that the widest part should be roughly level with your waistband. Depending on your preference and the look you’re going for, it could be slightly shorter or longer. In women’s fashion in particular, the tie can be a bit longer for a relaxed look, or a bit shorter for a retro look. The width of the tie should always match the lapel of the blazer and the collar width. In other words, a narrow lapel calls for a narrow tie. But once again, it’s all a question of personal taste. So feel free to break these rules – as long as you make sure there’s a collar under your tie.
Header image: Spotlight
Has endless love for shoulder pads, Stratocasters and sashimi, but a limited tolerance for bad impressions of her Eastern Swiss dialect.
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