

Nail care: the basics

What should I look out for when choosing a file? What can I use to remove my cuticles? How can I strengthen my nails? I asked an expert – here's a summary of her tips.
I don't know a lot about nails. Vanessa Bernath, on the other hand, does. The 29-year-old blogger's Instagram account @poesiepixel is all about nail care and design. She told me how you can gently care for your nails and get them into shape in six steps.
1. Brighten up discoloured nails
Applying red, blue or green polish directly onto your nails without an undercoat can cause discolouration. But baking powder and lemon will brighten things up. Mix two parts lemon juice with one part baking powder to create a paste and apply it to your nails. Massage the mixture in and leave it to work for around five minutes. Then, wash your hands with soap. Before you start, make sure there's no broken skin around your nails to avoid any stinging.

2. File right
The professionals use different files with a range of grains, but it's easier to find one for personal use. Traditional files for natural nails are generally categorised as «coarse» or «fine». Oftentimes, they're double-sided. Coarse on the one side, fine on the other. Forget the coarse side.
Use only the fine side to shorten and shape your nails to prevent them tearing or fraying. You can also use a glass file. They're a bit more expensive, but they're fine on both sides. Smooth motions are important for filing. Once you've shaped your nails how you want them, you can polish the edges with a buffer for a clean finish. But avoid your nail plate, or you'll make your nail thinner and more brittle.




Alessandro Spa - Quick Shine Polish File
3. Push back or remove cuticles
Your nail plate and cuticle grow along your lunula. Everyone has cuticles, but some people's are less visible or pronounced than others'. You'll often only notice they're there after lightly filing your nail plate. To avoid ridges or an uneven finish on painted nails, you can either push cuticles back or cut them.
To push them back, you're best off using cuticle remover. You apply it, wait a few seconds or follow the instructions, then move your cuticles back with a pusher. Afterwards, wash your hands. Some people find that they don't need remover: washing their hands is enough to soften the cuticle. Find out what works best for you. Or, alternatively, use a fine file on your cuticle and remove the rest from the nail plate with a buffer.

Caution is advised when it comes to clippers. Start by cutting off the dry skin around the whole nail. You're best off starting at the left and right of the nail fold and moving towards the cuticle on the lunula. The slower you go, the lower the risk of damage, because you'll realise if you've removed old skin or accidentally caught some new skin while you're doing it.

4. Nail scrubs
DIY scrubs help to remove any excess cuticle that you didn't get rid of in the previous step. This gives your nails the final touch. Mix sugar with a little jojoba oil. Don't warm it up or the sugar will lose its crystalline texture and exfoliating effect. Apply the mixture to your nails and hands. Massage it in well, then wash it off with soap.

5. Jojoba oil
Jojoba oil strengthens your nails and keeps them flexible, preventing them hardening and becoming more brittle. For best results, apply the oil to slightly damp skin and nails once a day. This makes it easier to absorb. Just massage it in a bit and you're done.

6. Moisturise
Along with applying oil every day, you also need to moisturize regularly. Now more than ever, when we're washing and sanitising our hands more often and our skin and nails are drying out more quickly. The result: cracked skin and brittle nails. The solution: reach for the hand cream at least once a day and massage it into your hands, nails and cuticles.

Obviously, you can tailor this routine to your needs, leaving out individual steps or picking out the ones that make the most sense for you. Next time, we'll be taking a look at nail polish basics.
This is the first article in our nails series with Vanessa Bernath. Any questions or things to add? Drop me a comment below.
Photos: Vanessa Bernath

As a massive Disney fan, I see the world through rose-tinted glasses. I worship series from the 90s and consider mermaids a religion. When I’m not dancing in glitter rain, I’m either hanging out at pyjama parties or sitting at my make-up table. P.S. I love you, bacon, garlic and onions.