Can Nivea do make-up?
24.6.2021
Translation: Julia Graham
After many years, Nivea is launching a make-up line again and diving head first into shark-filled waters.
When Nivea was still doing make-up, I was a fan of the Twilight Saga. I bought my first red lipstick at the blue counter. It was a cool red that smudged almost instantly. But I stuck with the product. There weren’t really a lot of other choices in my teenage years. At least, not in the pocket money category. Not long after, the stand disappeared and along with it Nivea’s make-up range. Until just now. The brand is having another attempt at the make-up category and throwing three cosmetic products at a market which has changed so much in the interim.
In this industry, it’s kill or be killed
The market is competitive, and make-up isn’t the same as granny’s Nivea Creme. There’s no «one size fits all». Especially not when it comes to foundation. People have specific skin requirements, and they know there’s enough choice on the market to find something that will meet those needs. But Nivea has to do more than just serve a niche that other brands are neglecting. It also has to provide a minimum number of shades. For a while now, it hasn’t passed muster to limit shade ranges. After all, some competitors offer 30 to 50 shades per foundation. That’s why established brands, such as Hourglass and Tarte come under fire – and rightly so.
So, where’s this criticism coming from? An active community, which is a by-product of the social media age. Insta accounts such as Huda Beauty have almost 49 million followers. That’s 49 million people who’re interested in make-up and have their own opinion on such topics in this bubble. They form a kind of jury – which includes bloggers – who compare product releases with each other and put new items through their paces. Their verdict makes or breaks a brand. And sometimes, it can even lead to boycotts. It’s irrelevant whether or not these people are part of the brand’s target audience or not – any company that disregards the community factor is wasting a huge opportunity.
Testing out the products
We’ve set the standards for getting back into the make-up industry. Now it’s time to try out Nivea’s three new products. And they all have the same motto: make-up meets facial care. The approach isn’t new, but it’s also not as stale as in so many other niches.
Foundation
The «Hyaluron Cellular Filler 3-in-1 Care Make-up» is the closest thing to traditional foundation. According to Nivea, it’s fragrance-free and contains hyaluronic acid, while the packaging claims to keep your skin moisturised for 12 hours.
First impressions:
Nivea gave me three shades to test out. Three! Light, medium and dark. That’s abysmal and far from standard practice. Generally, it’s agreed that the more coverage a foundation has, the more precise you have to be with matching the skin tone. And this foundation has solid medium coverage. So really, sending three shades is inexcusable.
For this test, I have a try at «01 Light». The problem isn’t just that this shade is a touch too light for me; it also has a pink undertone. I need more of a yellow one. I applied the make-up with a damp sponge and was pleasantly surprised by the velvety finish. My pores look smoothed out and my complexion has a healthy glow. The appearance of the skin even looks flawless four hours later.
Cushion make-up
The «3-in-1 Care Tinted Fluid Cushion» is designed to give the skin a natural complexion. It’s also formulated with SPF 15.
First impressions:
Unfortunately, we find ourselves in a sad triangle of three colours once again. The difference being that the foundation described here as «Light» is about five shades darker than the foundation of the same name above. Not exactly what I’d call uniformity. Before I apply the product, I press my finger into the little sponge. Up until now, none of my cushion foundations have been this wet. A yellowish transparent liquid had collected in the lid. You can see the cream and pigment separate on my finger and the swatches. I apply the product with a make-up sponge. Even on my face, there’s a noticeable white haze.
The coverage is lighter than the Care Make-up range above. And yet, the product feels distinctly heavier on the skin. Akin to substantial sunscreen. After just two hours, my skin looks greasy and blotchy. What’s more, even after powdering, I’m as sticky as a flytrap.
BB Cream
According to Nivea, the «5-in-1 BB Day Cream» delivers 24-hour moisture, evens the skin tone, covers small imperfections and gives the skin a natural glow. It’s formulated with SPF 20, jojoba oil and mineral pigments.
First impressions:
BB creams don’t have coverage. This means manufacturers usually release them in a smaller colour palette, as one colour can often work for many skin tones. This is all the more reason for Nivea to make a half-hearted attempt at their homework. Two shades made it onto the shelves. It’s a shame, because apart from that issue, the product has everything I’d want from a BB cream.
I apply the product with a brush to get the most coverage out of it as possible. Brushes guzzle less product than a sponge. The results are in… It looks like my skin, only better. The finish is natural and my skin is positively glowing. My complexion is even and, given the cream feels cool and wet, the moisturiser seems to be doing its job. It’s so wet that I even need to use a second brush on the other half of my face to get an even application. To put this into perspective: when I’m applying foundation, I can use the same brush as many as five times before the brush hairs stick together.
Unfortunately, the product oxidises on my skin. This means the colour darkens as soon as it comes into contact with the air. And for me, this translates as the already too dark BB Cream being even less suitable for my skin tone. It would be a great option for very dry skin. But you’re best to avoid it if you have an oilier skin type.
Verdict: the sharks just found their next meal
I’m impressed and incredibly disappointed at the same time. Nivea knows how to implement its skincare expertise. The foundation and BB Cream wowed me. But the weaknesses in the product palette can’t be overlooked. Only two to three shades per product? I haven’t seen such a limited colour range since the noughties. What’s lacking is shades on both sides of the spectrum as well as fine-tuning with regard to the right undertone. It’s a deal breaker that stands in the way of the brand’s leap into the make-up industry. It’s as though Nivea has been watching the market for the last few years with blinkers on. In other words, why wasn’t inclusion on its radar as one of the big topics in the make-up world?
Nivea’s target audience only seems to be its long-standing customers, who clearly like the brand and are set in their ways. But why not throw the net wider? At least two of the three products could have had that covered. Instead, Nivea preferred to splash around in shallow waters. But the company has to be careful… the sharks can bite you there, too.
Natalie Hemengül
Senior Editor
Natalie.Hemenguel@digitecgalaxus.chAs a massive Disney fan, I see the world through rose-tinted glasses. I worship series from the 90s and consider mermaids a religion. When I’m not dancing in glitter rain, I’m either hanging out at pyjama parties or sitting at my make-up table. P.S. I love you, bacon, garlic and onions.
Beauty
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