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The man with 15,000 pairs of jeans: «I never wash my denim»
by Vanessa Kim
Buying jeans? You need these tips
17.9.2020
Translation: Megan Cornish
Shopping for jeans is a real pain because the fit is so rarely perfect. Read on to find out how to find the right pair and what to look out for.
Finding a well-fitting pair of jeans is like winning the lottery. The fit is rarely 100% right. Rather than being too tight or too wide in the legs, a lot of styles are too tight around my stomach. I'm not as critical with any other item of clothing as I am with the comfort and look of jeans. Because if they don't fit properly, they ruin the whole outfit. That's why I've adopted a few tricks over the years to score the jackpot of a perfectly-fitting pair of jeans.
Don't get hung up on manufacturers' sizes
Don't get annoyed if you don't fit into your normal size when you're trying on jeans. It's unlikely that you've put on or lost weight overnight. Not every fashion manufacturer tailors in the same way, which results in different sizes between brands. This makes try-ons a must. Try to ignore the size, focusing instead on a good fit.
Bear in mind that jeans with a high elastane content will slacken over time. If you decide on a high-elastane pair, the button should close tightly when new.
Take your time
I'd advise against impulse purchases. Plan an extended shopping trip for your search. When you find a pair you like, do the fit test: kneel, sit down and take a few steps in them.
If you're in a hurry and don't have time to do anything more than buy a pair of jeans, try this trick: place your forearm – your elbow up to and including your balled fist – into the waistband. If your arm fits, the jeans will fit on your hips well. This trick works on all the jeans in my wardrobe.
Think about what's in your wardrobe
Did you know that the shoes you wear for jeans shopping are key? If you try on bootcut jeans that are too long without heels, the proportions will be off. Even cropped styles look odd depending on your footwear or the heel height of your ankle boots.
So, when you're trying on jeans, always think about what shoes you'll wear with them and what effect you're aiming for: chunky shoes with wide jeans make you look bigger. The thicker the shoe, the slimmer the jeans cut should be and vice versa. The only exception is skinny jeans, which go with everything.
The material makes all the difference
Lower quality jeans often have a higher proportion of synthetic fibres, which means that they have a tendency to slacken, especially at the knees. The same goes for denim with a high elastane content. They feel like a second skin to start with, but soon wear out.
I've had the best experiences with styles from jeans manufacturers like Levi’s and Lee. I know that these brands have years of denim expertise and the material is durable and hard-wearing.
To enjoy your jeans for longer, you should hardly ever wash them. Less is more, like denim expert Ruedi Karrer explained in his interview with Galaxus:
Don't forget how you look from the back
To make sure your jeans «wow» as much from the back as they do from the front, it's worth a look in a second mirror. Luckily, most changing room cubicles are kitted out with multiple mirrors. That way, you'll see whether the jeans enhance or flatten your bum. If the changing room only has one mirror, ask your shopping companion to take a photo. That way, you don't have to be a contortionist in your cubicle.
The colour
When it comes to colour, you're spoiled for choice. Jeans come in all colours these days. Generally, light washes like light blue and grey make you look bigger. Darker jeans in navy and black look uniform and have the opposite effect, as they make your legs look longer. If you're looking for jeans to wear to the office, I recommend a pair in a uniform shade without any frayed hems or holes.
Back pockets
Have you ever thought about why back pockets aren't always the same size? Their placement determines how good your bum looks. The bigger they are, the rounder they look. Small pockets close together have the opposite effect. Make a conscious decision which effect you're looking for with your jeans.
The rise
High-waisted jeans enhance your bum and a slim abdomen. If like me, you have a straight waist, I recommend a mid rise. You can play around with these effects to your liking.
Leg length is just as important as rise. Ideally, jeans should stop at your ankles to enhance the slimmest part of your legs and make your bottom half look longer. Jeans that stop «at your shoe» shorten your silhouette.
Go to our jeans range..
When I’m not exploring the depths of the sea as an open water diver, I enjoy plunging into the world of fashion. On the streets of Paris, Milan and New York is where I keep my eyes peeled for the latest trends. And I’ll show you how to take them from the catwalk to your everyday life.
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