Counterfeits of popular beauty products can contain lead, superglue and traces of faeces and urine, among other things. This is not only disgusting, but also quite dangerous.
The hatchery
The invisible danger
Fake cosmetics are not only morally reprehensible, but also a danger to your health. According to the documentary series, most of it is produced in dirty laboratories in China and sold via third-party online marketplaces. The products contain carcinogenic substances such as arsenic and beryllium, animal faeces, horse urine and even superglue. One consumer reported that her lips stuck together after applying a lipstick.
As a massive Disney fan, I see the world through rose-tinted glasses. I worship series from the 90s and consider mermaids a religion. When I’m not dancing in glitter rain, I’m either hanging out at pyjama parties or sitting at my make-up table. P.S. I love you, bacon, garlic and onions.
The first time I came into contact with fake cosmetics was in Turkey. Back then, I was strolling through a market with my parents and came across a stall with a mountain of make-up. These included products from the limited-edition "Disney Villains" collection from MAC Cosmetics. A line that I would have loved to call my own. But forking out thirty francs for a powder is something you have to think about when you're a teenager. So the temptation at the market was all the greater. The seller assured us that the products were genuine despite the low price. My parents doubted this and advised me not to buy them. It's a good thing I listened to them.
According to the Netflix documentary series "The Consumer Market: A Broken System", the beauty industry is currently booming more than ever. The age of social media has made it easier for numerous indie brands to enter the market, competing with the big players such as Estée Lauder, L'Oréal and Coty. Unlike them, they do not rely on traditional advertising such as print and TV adverts, but on social media and targeted influencer marketing. According to Lexy Lebsack, Senior Beauty Editor at Refinery29, the latter can ensure that a product sells up to twice as well.
More suppliers and a higher frequency of new launches are flooding the market. Hyped products are omnipresent on YouTube, Instagram and the like. People want to keep up with this pace. Only the latest and greatest is good enough. Make-up is becoming a status symbol. What's more, brands are deliberately producing smaller quantities that do not meet demand in order to make their products appear even more desirable in a saturated market. The sale of counterfeit goods can therefore be more lucrative than the sale of drugs. This is because only a small proportion of the population is willing to take illegal drugs, but a large proportion enjoys owning nice things, says the LAPD.
An LAPD employee shows that counterfeit beauty products are available even on the streets of Los Angeles. Image: Netflix
While established brands in the USA have their ingredients tested as part of a self-regulation programme because their reputation is at stake, counterfeiters are only interested in making a quick buck. They scrutinise the list of ingredients in various products and try to find out how much of what is in them. They replace expensive substances with cheaper alternatives. Heavy metals such as lead and mercury, which act as cheap colourants, have also been found in the imitations. According to dermatologist Dr Whitney P. Bowe, who was interviewed in the series, they can lead to fertility problems, miscarriages, headaches and memory problems.
It's not just the questionable ingredients that are a problem. Bacteria from faeces and urine, which get into the imitations due to unhygienic production, also lead to numerous complaints and skin diseases. According to Bowe, the number of her patients who have come to her with contact dermatitis, skin infections, conjunctivitis and inflammation of the eyelid glands has increased over the last five years. In many cases, this could be attributed to the use of counterfeit products. Nowadays, it is more difficult than ever to visually distinguish counterfeits from the original. The big difference lies in what's inside. Indicators of a counterfeit are the place of sale, price and packaging. With the latter, pay particular attention to details such as the print quality or any spelling mistakes that may have crept in. Ultimately, it is up to you as an informed consumer to prevent counterfeit goods from getting a chance.
