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The self-taught designer

30.8.2019

Translation: Patrik Stainbrook

Fashion designer Franziska Schlupski not only channels the 1950s, she makes them accessible to a wide audience through her vintage label.

Red lipstick, flawless eyeliner and a body-skimming floral petticoat dress – Franziska Schlupski is 1950s America personified. This passion took hold in her teenage years, first with the music of Elvis, then with the films of Marilyn Monroe. The aesthetics of the era captured her imagination immediately. Franziska rarely wears modern clothes these days. She much prefers to combine vintage pieces. But there are also days when she's on the go in a tank top, slippers and joggers, such as when she's out with her dog Henry Gassi. «My joggers are high waisted, emphasising my shape,» she added with a wink. There's even a hint of retro in supposedly modern outfits.

Retro hats are one of Franziska's biggest passions. She even makes some of her own.

The fashion designer takes inspiration from old issues of Vogue, among other things. — Retro hats are one of Franziska's biggest passions. She even makes some of her own.

She turned her passion into a career. Her clothing label Prettie Lanes focuses on authentic 1950s fashion. Her limited edition pieces are so authentic that they look interchangeable with genuine vintage garments. This is no surprise, as she uses the same fabrics, cuts and hand-finished details for her creations. She even recreates the era's stitching perfectly. «I study genuine vintage pieces and patterns in detail to reproduce the style of the 1950s in my collections as accurately as possible, even though they're actually new.» Her customer base includes women who like a feminine retro style. They often find it difficult to buy well-fitting vintage pieces due to their frame. «This is because women were extremely slim back then. Which is why I offer made-to-measure pieces.» She hasn't yet branched out into men's fashion, citing a lack of necessary expertise.

The beginning

Franziska Schlupski first sat down at a sewing machine at just eleven years old. Playing around with fabrics and pins, she created new outfits for her dolls and developed a feel for colour and materials. «Rather than playing with my Barbies, I liked dressing and undressing them,» adds Franziska, laughing. «After a few unsuccessful attempts and some learning by doing, I tried some bags and cushion covers.» She first made her own clothes at the age of 16. But she doubted her own talent too much.

... are from Franziska's collection. Images: Franziska Schlupski — Both pieces...

This was also one of the reasons that she studied «Leisure and Tourism Management» rather than fashion design in Stralsund after leaving school. After a semester in Switzerland, she decided to stay in Zurich. She never gave up sewing. On the contrary: it was the ideal escape from everyday working life. She taught herself tailoring over the years.

As people were coming up to her and talking about her clothes more and more, she realised that there was demand for retro fashion. «In 2015, I decided to set up my label Prettie Lanes.» She started off part-time, then after two years she had to decide between her job and her brand. The answer was clear: she said goodbye to her back office role.

One-woman show

The Prettie Lanes team has just one member: Franziska. The designer is responsible for every step in the process, from coming up with the ideas for each design to tailoring, shipping and managing her online shop. Having her studio at home isn't only advantageous from a financial perspective. «After I wake up, I put on my white overall, put my pincushion around my wrist and pop my tape measure around my neck.» Then she looks at her latest orders and checks whether she has enough fabric. Once that's done, she's ready to process and sew the orders.

Franziska cutting fabric in her white overall. Around 90% of orders come from abroad. A lot of enquiries come from North America and England.

The German has no interest in fast fashion. She prioritises quality over quantity. «Considering I'm a fashion designer, I keep my wardrobe small and clear.» Slow fashion is her motto: Franziska makes all Prettie Lanes pieces by hand and to order at her Zurich studio. As a result, her customers need to be prepared for waiting times of around 10 weeks, as each piece is individual and sustainable.

«Sustainability should be a given, not a label's decisive sales pitch.» That's why the designer uses sustainable, durable materials such as natural fabrics and metal zips. She chooses not to use plastic adhesive tape, bubble wrap, polyester or elastane.

When asked what she's always wanted to design, Franziska smiled and answered: «vintage-inspired couture evening dresses.» She pointed to two mannequins enrobed in tulle and silk. «I've finally fulfilled this dream». Her second label «Franziska Schlupski» specialises in custom-made wedding dresses and red carpet outfits. «It allows me to be more creative than I am with Prettie Lanes, as there's no strict budget to stick to.» This is a dream come true for the designer. Despite initial self-doubt about her talent, there's a happy ending.

Couture creations (the first two on the left) captivate with fine fabrics such as silk and chiffon. She launched her eponymous fashion label «Franziska Schlupski» on 31st August 2019.

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Vanessa Kim

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vanessa.kim@digitecgalaxus.ch

When I’m not exploring the depths of the sea as an open water diver, I enjoy plunging into the world of fashion. On the streets of Paris, Milan and New York is where I keep my eyes peeled for the latest trends. And I’ll show you how to take them from the catwalk to your everyday life.

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