Background information
Swiss start-up launches ring as a substitute for mice and trackpads
by Lorenz Keller
The Lord of the Rings
28.10.2019
Translation: machine translated
Video: Stephanie Tresch
The Swiss jewellery manufacturer Furrer Jacot can look back on over 161 years of company history. One of its secret weapons is long-standing in-house designer Lucas Ruppli, who brings a breath of fresh air to the traditional company with his modern designs.
Mühletal is just a five-minute walk from Schaffhausen railway station. This is where the headquarters of wedding ring and jewellery manufacturer Furrer Jacot is located in a former steelworks. The 500 square metre historic building houses not only production, but also the offices. A cornerstone of the company, because: The short distances not only simplify internal communication, but also make the production processes for orders more efficient.
No item is produced by machine at the manufactory, which was founded in 1858. Made to order is the motto. The jewellery is only made by hand once the order has been received and passed on from the goldsmith to the polisher via the gem setter and engraver. Each piece of jewellery is meticulously inspected by an employee before being passed on to the next "station" once the work is done. The trouble shooter in the event of a mishap is head designer Lucas Ruppli, who has been with the company for over 30 years and keeps a watchful eye on production.
The creative has already completed his apprenticeship at Furrer Jacot. Back then, he was able to hold his own against 17 competitors when a goldsmith apprenticeship was advertised. "Despite my mohawk cut and blue hair, I was allowed to introduce myself to the company," he says with a grin. "After the taster apprenticeship, I was accepted, even though I was a weirdo. I didn't expect that." His passion for the job was probably the deciding factor.
After completing his apprenticeship, Lucas moved to South Africa to work for the UN. He worked for the military there for a year and a half. As chance would have it, Furrer Jacot was looking for a head designer when he returned to Schaffhausen unemployed in 1992. The trained goldsmith applied for the job. Despite his lack of training in this field, he was lucky again. "You either have it in your blood or you don't." The creative is still convinced of this today.
Today, the creative mind enjoys carte blanche in the creative process. His success proves him right. Lucas has already dusted off several awards for his designs in the past. These include the "Snakebone" ring, for which he was inspired by the skeleton of a snake. The main ring in polished white gold is adorned with around 30 small rings in red gold. Just like a snake that moves its body alternately from one side to the other, these rings can also be slid back and forth. "You can't get any more ring than that," says the head designer.
In addition to Furrer Jacot's standard models, the company also produces customised rings to meet individual customer requirements. "Provided they can be realised," says Lucas. The most unusual was an egg that a sheikh wanted to commission from him. This was to be completely covered in diamonds. What he needed this egg for is a mystery to Lucas. "Maybe as a paperweight?" The deal never materialised.
Furrer Jacot is aware that not everyone can afford such couture items. This is where the second brand Siara comes into play. The design of their wedding rings is commercial, but no less beautiful. Despite the more favourable price, these pieces are also only made after the order has been received. They work with an existing Basic design, but special requests are also possible here. For example, the material, the surface, the diamond arrangement or the engraving can be customised. Because the rings are made by hand, they do not all look the same compared to those that are produced by machine. "Every ring has its own character. That's why the same goldsmith is commissioned to make the wedding rings for the same couple. That way, they are identical in style." The ordering process, including delivery, usually takes around two weeks. "But if necessary, we can also do it in 24 hours if customs don't throw a spanner in the works."
To give you an idea of how the production of a ring works at Furrer Jacot, the head designer explains the individual steps in this video in fast-forward.
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