Background information
The messy side of the make-up industry: «I didn’t want to be part of the problem»
by Natalie Hemengül
"My job is absolutely useless"
3.2.2020
Translation: machine translated
Pictures: Thomas Kunz
An interview that is doomed to fail takes a surprising turn in the middle of the conversation. About make-up tips and the job confession of make-up artist Caroline Madison.
Caroline Madison seems reserved when I meet her in the lobby of a Parisian hotel. Surprising for someone who earns her living not only as a make-up artist, but also as a (nude) model. The French woman with Asian roots slumps down in the comfortable plush armchair, tosses her red-coloured bobbed mane out of her face and looks at me with a firm yet slightly bored expression. During our conversation, I can't shake the feeling that she's not really in the mood for this interview. Is what I thought was reticence pure disinterest? I miss the fire in her eyes, the passion for what she does. Until I find out why.
You are living the dream of many. How did you make the leap into the fashion industry?
Caroline Madison, make-up artist and model: It was a coincidence. Ten years ago, a photographer approached me on the street. I had no interest at the time and declined with thanks. When I was "scouted" again a year later, I wanted to give it a chance. My passion for make-up, on the other hand, was sparked as a young child. When I started talking to make-up artists on set during various modelling assignments, I realised that I not only felt comfortable in front of the camera, but also behind it. I bought my first professional make-up kit six years ago.
Did I understand that correctly? You didn't go to make-up school?
Exactly. I taught myself everything and practised a lot, on myself and on models. Because I model myself, I have a good network that I could fall back on. That made a lot of things easier. When I realised my first editorials as a make-up artist and had the first images for my portfolio, I created a website and contacted photographers. The more I posted on social media, the more commissions I landed.
In what way did your passion for make-up emerge at a young age?
I'm not fascinated by the product per se, but by playing with colours and touching textures. As a five-year-old, I used to sneak into the bathroom and secretly sniff my mum's lipstick. Lipsticks were heavily perfumed back then. I still have the scent in my nose. I could have done that for hours. As I attended a private Catholic school where make-up was strictly forbidden, I didn't wear make-up until secondary school. My first product was a cheek blush from Chanel.
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Everyone is clamouring for natural cosmetics. Can you recognise any other changes in the industry?
Today, everyone owns a make-up brush. That was different ten years ago. Teenagers already have a professional make-up kit and an arsenal of make-up. We have this generation and social media to thank for the fact that almost every girl now calls herself a make-up guru. This is ruining the whole industry, as being a good make-up artist takes a lot of practice and dedication. It's not enough to simply film yourself applying make-up and then post the video. What's more, cosmetics brands are launching far too many new products. Consumption has increased immeasurably. This is not only harmful for the skin, but also for the environment.
You hardly ever wear make-up. Do you wear make-up in your private life or are you fed up with it in your free time?
I wear make-up every day. However, the older I get, the more importance I attach to my facial care. I also eat and live healthily. I used to apply liquid foundation every day. I don't do that anymore.
«Green Beauty? The real green is in vegetables.»
What does your facial care routine look like?
Nutrition plays a 70 per cent role. The remaining 30 per cent depends on your lifestyle. Regular gym visits make all the difference. When it comes to nutrition, I consciously opt for organic food and eat lots of fruit, seaweed and vegetables. I also drink green tea. I avoid dairy products as much as possible. The more beautiful my skin is, the less make-up I need. Green beauty? The real "green" is in vegetables.
As a make-up pro, can you give our readers a quick make-up tip?
If you're in a hurry, you'll need two things: a BB Cream and some Rouge. If you still have a few seconds left, you can apply mascara.
Finding the right make-up shade is not that easy,
however. Ideally, you should have two shades to hand: a "dark" one for summer and a slightly lighter one for the winter months. Don't apply the foundation in the shop to the back of your hand - many amateurs make this mistake - but to the transition from your face to your neck. Optionally, you can also apply the shade to the inside of your arm. As soon as your face is not the same colour as your neck, the whole thing looks mask-like and unnatural.
Your tip for applying lipstick?
Well-moisturised lips are the be-all and end-all. This includes peelings, which remove dead skin cells from your mouth. Either apply a powder or lip balm as a base. For a matte lipstick, I recommend a lip balm. For a creamy texture, however, I recommend using a powder as a primer. This way, the lipstick will stay on longer.
And for the perfect eyeliner?
This works best with a brush with a bevelled tip and a gel eyeliner from the pot. Use it to draw a fine line along the lash line. You'll never go wrong. No master has ever fallen from the sky. That's why it's all about practising, practising, practising. Eyeliner tapes are also helpful.
A tip for voluminous eyelashes?
I use different mascaras depending on what I need. I don't use false lash rings as I want to emphasise the natural shape of my eyes when applying make-up. Individual fake lash hairs, which I place individually on fine or very short lashes, are the ultimate. If you apply a good mascara, you don't need a special technique. My current favourite is the "Better Than Sex Mascara" from Too Faced. If you have a limited budget, I recommend the mascaras from L'Oréal Paris.
Do you swear by one beauty label or do you use different ones in your work?
I favour brands that are not (yet) available in France. When travelling abroad, I always come across products that convince me in terms of price and quality. I prefer brands that are vegan and not tested on animals. However, vegan no longer means anything these days. The Zoeva brand convinced me because the packaging is made from old cardboard boxes. This is very important to me as I avoid plastic wherever possible. I also use up every make-up product to the bitter end. If someone markets pseudo-natural cosmetics but they cause plastic waste, it makes no sense. Especially in times like these, when plastic is polluting the oceans and killing animals. If I may give everyone a message: Stop wasting. You don't need a lot of things because they are superfluous. One shade of red in your make-up kit is enough. You don't need ten different shades of it.
I finally recognise the passion, the flicker in Caroline's eyes. I breathe a sigh of relief inside, as I was about to throw in the towel. None of my dialogue partners have ever been so disinterested and lazy when it comes to their own work. Only now do I realise that the make-up artist likes to talk. Very much so. But she doesn't want to be reduced to make-up topics or her job, she wants to talk about things that are close to her heart. Things that move her. I'm pleasantly surprised, because no make-up artist has ever answered me so honestly. It's a win-win situation.
That sounds frustrating!
Yes, the longer I work in this industry, the more I realise how useless my job is. I love what I do. There's no question about that. But it doesn't contribute any articles to society. On the contrary, it encourages consumption. It makes me unhappy. It may make you look more beautiful, but it harms the environment. It also doesn't make people think.
Will you change anything about it?
I am undecided. I've recently discovered writing for myself. Maybe one day I'll start a blog. In it, I will shed light on the unsavoury side of the cosmetics industry. As I am very interested in the chemical components of cosmetics, the focus could also be on ingredients. More and more brands are calling themselves vegan, even though there is nothing behind it. If the product is in plastic packaging, I can't take the whole thing seriously. Because as soon as the product is applied, it ends up in the sea and harms the ecosystem. That is anything but well thought out. There is still so much to say about this topic. That's why I want to write about it. My job in the fashion industry hasn't helped me a bit intellectually. On the contrary: it makes me stupid.
You're pretty hard on yourself!
I'm proud of my work, but it doesn't fulfil me in the long term. I have to compensate for this shortcoming by writing. I watch a lot of investigative documentaries about the dark side of the fashion industry. Many models are underpaid and have to hold out for hours at castings. The working conditions are appalling. People make a profit from this. This needs to be addressed and not just the glamour of the industry. Admittedly, I do that with my Instagram posts too. Although it's not the way I think.
Will you do it differently in the future?
Every time I make a negative comment, I lose followers on Instagram. The problem is that I love my job and the people around me. I have to accept that certain people in the industry will probably turn their backs on me if I'm honest. At least this way I know who my real friends are.
When I’m not exploring the depths of the sea as an open water diver, I enjoy plunging into the world of fashion. On the streets of Paris, Milan and New York is where I keep my eyes peeled for the latest trends. And I’ll show you how to take them from the catwalk to your everyday life.
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