Spring will soon be here and the motorbike season can begin again. However, before you take your motorbike out on the road, you should check and repair a few things on your vehicle.
The brakes on your motorbike are your life insurance. They should always work 100 per cent. If you're not quite sure, it's better to go to a workshop and have the brakes checked and repaired by a mechanic.
You should also briefly check the lights before your first ride. A simple function check is sufficient. Are the brake lights working? Are all indicators working? Can I switch between daytime running lights and dipped headlights? And so on. If something does not work, it may be due to the bulb or the electrics. In most cases, however, the bulb is the cause. You can simply replace it or take your motorbike to a workshop for repair.
Cleaning
Of course, your motorbike also needs a spring clean. Treat your vehicle to a wellness treatment after the long winter hibernation and pamper it with a thorough clean. Not only will the cleaning make your motorbike shine in all its glory, you will also be able to see any damage to your vehicle, no matter how small. So you know exactly where you need to repair something.
Every new snowfall makes every motorcyclist's heart bleed. Because we can hardly wait to jump back on the saddle and tackle the mountain passes. However, spring is getting closer and closer and the hours of sunshine are getting a little more every day. Soon it will be that time again and we can explore the world on our two-wheelers. But before you take your motorbike out on public roads, you should check a few things on your vehicle. I have therefore compiled a short list of the things I check on my motorbike before each season .
After several months without use, your battery has almost certainly gone into hibernation. It is discharged and needs a little help to get it working properly again. To do this, remove the battery from your motorbike and connect it to a battery charger for a few hours. Such a charger is part of every motorcyclist's basic equipment. They don't cost much and can be used for several years. I've had mine for over five years and it still works like the first day.
It may be that your battery can no longer be charged. In this case, you will have to get a new one. Different batteries are available depending on your budget. You have to decide for yourself what you prefer. Whether you prefer a battery with acid or one with gel. Personally, I have always bought a cheap acid battery, even though people say that gel batteries last longer. You can save money here if you buy batteries that you have to fill yourself. That's not rocket science either. You should still be careful, however, as acid is not so kind to the skin. When buying, you should choose the right size. They vary in size depending on the motorbike. It's best to take a close look at your current battery and buy one of the same size.
As a rule, tyres can last up to ten years. However, it is not just the age of the tyres that should be taken into account. The condition of the tyre and in particular its tread depth are primary indicators of the condition of your fins. In Switzerland, every tyre must have a tread depth of at least 1.6 millimetres. Furthermore, tyres can become porous and brittle over the years. Therefore, check your tyres for small cracks in the rubber. If such cracks are visible or if your tyres no longer have sufficient tread depth, you must fit a new set of tyres to your motorbike before riding on public roads again. After all, it is not only your safety that is at stake here, but also that of other road users.
If you want or need to get new tyres, there are a few important features to consider. First of all, you should be clear about what kind of tyres you actually need. In other words, are you travelling on the road or off-road? Depending on where you ride your motorbike, you will need different tyres. Off-road, you need a coarse tread pattern to make it easier to remove dirt from the tyre tread. On the road, you should have as much contact with the ground as possible with the tyres. This means fewer coarse studs and smoother surfaces. In addition, motorbikes have different sized rims. Therefore, check the manual for your motorbike to see which tyre size you need for your vehicle.
If you have never changed a tyre yourself or fitted a new tyre on the rims, I recommend that you have this done by a specialist in a motorbike workshop. This is an easy task for them and can be done quickly. It doesn't cost the earth either. If you now have new tyres on your motorbike, you need to make sure that they are run in first. A new tyre is only properly run in after about 200 kilometres. So be careful during this phase and don't take corners too fast. After this running-in period, check the tyre pressure again. If necessary, bring the pressure back up to the correct level. You can do this at practically any petrol station and don't have to run to the nearest garage.
The brake disc, brake pad and brake fluid are particularly important when it comes to the brakes. The brake disc should not have any dents, cracks or rough grooves. If you slide your finger over it, you should not be able to feel any sharp edges. The brake pad must not be thinner than one millimetre. New ones are around seven or eight millimetres thick. You can check the brake fluid at the inspection window on the handlebars. The fluid should be between the minimum and maximum lines.
The chain is the part of your motorbike that transmits the power of the engine to the rear wheel and thus keeps you moving. In addition to maintaining and lubricating the chain, it is particularly important to check its tension. It should not be too loose or too tight. The chain is a wearing part and stretches over time. If the chain is therefore too loose, it can fly off the sprocket. If the chain becomes wedged, it can lock your wheel and you lose control of your motorbike. If the chain is too tight, it can damage the gearbox bearing or, in the worst case, even break.
How to tension the chain on your motorbike can be found in your vehicle manual. On my motorbike, there is a screw on the rear wheel with which I can adjust the position of the wheel. It may be that the rear wheel cannot be adjusted any further backwards, which means that you cannot tension the chain any further. In this case, you must either remove a link from the chain or, even better, buy a new chain. When buying a new chain, it is worth replacing the sprocket at the same time. This part can also show signs of wear over time. This is characterised by the fact that the teeth are worn and no longer the same length.
Oil changes are a controversial topic and many motorcyclists have different opinions. According to the manufacturer, the oil should be changed every 12 months or after 6,000 kilometres. Some consider this to be too often and think it's just a money-making exercise. Personally, I change the oil every 18 to 24 months. Which is around 10,000 kilometres for me. However, the number of kilometres varies greatly depending on the season. But I have to say that my motorbike is already 17 years old, so I don't take quite as much care with it as I used to. If I owned a newer motorbike, I would probably change the oil every year. It's clearly a question of cost and you have to decide for yourself how well you want to look after your motorbike. New oil is always good for the vehicle.
It can happen that the clutch play is adjusted due to the ride and the associated vibrations. You can easily adjust this on the handlebars. There is a small screw directly on the clutch lever. You can loosen this and then pull the cable in or out. Normally, the clutch lever has a few millimetres of play until the clutch engages. However, as every motorcyclist has their own preferences, you can adjust this to your liking. If you want more play, you need to pull the clutch cable out a little. If you prefer a more direct clutch, pull the cable further towards the clutch lever. Personally, however, I never adjust the clutch myself. Only when I treat my motorbike to another service in a workshop do I tell the mechanic to check the clutch and adjust it if necessary.
Since my motorbike has been around for a few years, it has a few peculiarities. For example, I know that I have to readjust my idle throttle after every winter. So this doesn't have to be the case with every motorbike. In my opinion, newer models have no difficulty with this. However, adjusting the idle throttle is quite simple. My motorbike has a small screw that connects the engine to the throttle lever. If I turn this screw out, the idle throttle increases, if I turn it back in, the idle throttle decreases. It's a bit of trial and error until you find the right position. This screw loosens on my motorbike as I ride and therefore has to be readjusted from time to time during the season.
If you don't feel like doing all these things yourself or don't have the confidence to repair them yourself, then take your motorbike to your trusted workshop. They will be happy to take good care of your vehicle and you can be sure that everything will be done properly. However, you can expect to spend more than if you tackle all the minor repairs and maintenance yourself. A little tip from me to you is: get these repairs done early enough in the workshop. The mechanics are always very busy in spring and can hardly keep up with the services that need to be done. So if you don't want to be without your motorbike for long, take it to the workshop now or make an appointment so that you are guaranteed to be able to enjoy the sunshine on the road with a roadworthy vehicle in the first nice weather.
