
CoffeeB Lungo Forte
9 x Port.
The new CoffeeB Cosmos no-capsule coffee machine gets my tastebuds’ seal of approval practically every time. Doing away with aluminium capsules, it works with compostable coffee balls instead. The only downside I see compared to conventional, capsule-based systems is the narrower selection of coffee varieties.
The Cosmos is a new version of CoffeeB’s ball machine. It was developed by Migros – or rather, its subsidiary Delica AG. Judging by the comments under the previous machine, it’s been unable to win customers over across the board in the two years since its launch. But that might be about to change.
Personally, I don’t have any experience with the predecessor model. Even so, I don’t recognise any of the drawbacks mentioned in comments about it in the new machine. To be exact, criticisms such as «watery coffee», «uses a relatively large amount of water» (which ends up in the drip tray) or that the machine stops working properly after just a few weeks. What’s more, even though there’s a comparatively narrow range of varieties (there are currently eleven available at the moment), I still manage to find enough coffee-ball flavours I really like.
The Cosmos review couldn’t have come at a better time; my fully automatic machine from Melitta has just broken down and needs to be repaired. Since my coffee machines have always been prone to breakdowns, I have a Nespresso Krups capsule machine on standby, which usually fills in when the other one conks out. Or if I randomly get a craving for a different type of coffee. On this occasion, though, I’ll be using it for comparative purposes only.
At almost 2.5 centimetres in diameter, coffee balls are about the same size as a Lindor chocolate. Each one contains coffee roasted and ground in Switzerland. After being pressed into a ball, the coffee’s then coated with a plant-based protective layer. This is designed to preserve the flavour even after you’ve opened the packet. The layer reminds me of a sausage skin.
Just like the contents of the coffee balls, the protective layer surrounding them is compostable. This is primarily where the Cosmos has the edge on capsule systems that produce aluminium or plastic waste.
Because of the protective layer, the used coffee balls remind me of black pudding or liver sausage when I press them with my finger. Though, if I look at a pile of them, they look more like slightly oversized deer droppings.
The Cosmos is slightly larger than my Nespresso Krups capsule machine. Although, at 16.5 × 27.4 × 38.3 centimetres, I’d still call it «compact». And that’s with a water tank boasting a capacity of 1.4 litres – twice that of the Nespresso machine. As the height up to the adjustable spout ranges from 8–10.5 centimetres, you can also fit slightly taller cups underneath. I use a large cup whenever I make a cappuccino and need space for the foam made with my Adler milk frother.
The machine comes with a see-through plastic dispenser, which I call the «ammo holder». This can be placed on top of the machine, protecting the balls from dust. When you turn it, it makes the balls roll towards the slot.
To put a ball into the machine, you need to pull the lever on the left-hand side of the device. This opens a cover that protects the slot from dust when it’s not being used.
Once the ball’s disappeared into the slot and you’ve got a cup at the ready, you pull the lever on the right. It’ll automatically go back to its original position once the coffee’s ready. Pulling it down pushes a coffee ball into the brewing chamber.
After that, the buttons on the machine light up and you can select a 40-millilitre espresso or a 110-millilitre lungo. The only reason this annoys me is because CoffeeB carries a ristretto variety in its range. Now, as we all know, a ristretto is half an espresso. And yet, the machine unfortunately doesn’t have a ristretto button. At least you can customise the settings for the lungo and espresso buttons, setting the dispensing volume between 25 and 200 millilitres.
The Cosmos is quieter and slightly faster than my Krups at preparing coffee. Once you’ve pressed the button, the machine takes a brief moment to heat up. It then starts the brewing process by piercing the coffee ball and dousing it in water. A few seconds later, the brown gold starts flowing out.
It strikes me that the spout barely drips or doesn’t drip at all after dispensing the coffee. That means I never have to empty the drip tray underneath. I also like that the machine always lets you know when the pasta strainer-like ball container’s full. And that this is the only time you need to empty the drip tray underneath, which collects liquid from the used balls.
It all works together in harmony. However, after a maximum of ten cups of coffee, you do have to remember to put a cup under the spout and press the cleaning button. This gives the pipes inside the machine a quick rinse. After making 40 litres’ worth of coffee, the machine automatically tells you it needs descaling.
The marketing material CoffeeB’s created for the ball machine features a particularly gorgeous caffè crema. And in fact, the machine really does produce thick, golden-brown foam. The thing is, it’s only about a third as thick as the foam in this promotional photo:
Since the crema my espresso machine produces is fairly thin in comparison, I don’t think this is a big deal. Even so, the marketing’s ever so slightly brazen.
This aside, I can’t really fault the machine – even if the selection of coffee varieties could be wider. CoffeeB currently offers eleven varieties, five of which I really like. My favourite is the Lungo Forte, which also comes in a pack of 18. It’s strong, with a hint of cocoa. Apparently, it tastes of caramel and pepper too, but I’m unable to make out those flavours.
CoffeeB Lungo Forte
9 x Port.
CoffeeB Lungo Forte
18 x Port.
These two varieties are just as delicious as the Lungo. I only drink the first one late in the evening, and the other’s actually for espresso:
CoffeeB Decaffeinato
9 x Port.
CoffeeB Espresso
9 x Port.
These are my favourite espresso balls:
CoffeeB Illy Espresso Intenso
9 x Port.
CoffeeB Ristretto
9 x Port.
If you buy a pack of nine, the coffee balls cost between 41 and 51 cents each, depending on the variety you’ve chosen. The large 18-pack, which is currently only available for Lungo Forte and Espresso Forte, works out at 38–44 cents per ball.
In terms of intensity and taste, coffee balls can hold their own against capsules. As someone who’s really keen on vanilla-flavoured coffee, the only thing I’m missing is a flavoured ball. I guess the possibility of one coming to market at some point depends on how successful the coffee balls turn out to be. I’d certainly imagine this coffee machine has good prospects.
During my review, I unfortunately didn’t notice that the lungo and espresso buttons can be customised. Both can be set between 25 and 200 millilitres. To do this, you have to press and hold the button for three seconds. Pressing it again stops the dispensing process, and makes the button dispense the same amount next time.
It’s obvious that compostable coffee balls are better for the environment than aluminium capsules. However, they’re only really an option if the coffee actually tastes good. Well, CoffeeB’s latest coffee-ball machine, the Cosmos, does a wonderful job of making delicious coffee. It gets the brown gold rolling and flowing in a flash, satisfying the desires of my coffee-loving heart just as well as capsule coffee.
It’s kind of a shame that the machine doesn’t have a ristretto button, despite CoffeeB having a ristretto variety in its range. On the bright side, the machine has a large water tank and is easy to use. Plus, making the balls roll through the machine and pushing down the lever is fun. Price-wise, the balls are comparable to capsules. However, the Cosmos is slightly more expensive than your average capsule machine.
Since every coffee machine I’ve had in the past, be it a portafilter, fully automatic or capsule machine, has broken down within two years, I’m being a little cautious with my star rating. I’ve decided to award the Cosmos four stars. It’ll get a fifth if CoffeeB makes more coffee varieties available and the machine ends up with a respectable warranty score.
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