Guide

AHA! All you need to know about fruit acid

9.12.2019

Translation: Eva Francis

Retinol prevents wrinkles. So does fruit acid. Dermatologist Dr. Liv Kraemer teaches us how to make fruit acid part of our daily beauty routine.

In my last interview with skinfood expert Dr. Liv Kraemer, I learned fruit acid, just like Retinol, also prevents wrinkles. Let’s find out more about this.

What is fruit acid?
Dr. Liv Kraemer, expert on dermatology, skincare and skinfood:
Fruit acids occur naturally in many plants and their fruits, as well as honey and milk, for example. Based on their biochemical structure, a distinction is made between so-called AHA (alpha hydroxyacid) and BHA (beta hydroxyacid) acids. BHA acid is also called salicylic acid and is frequently found in anti-acne creams. AHA acids are typically glycolic and lactic acids as well as mandelic acids. Even Cleopatra knew that lactic acid has a positive effect on skin and therefore bathed in fermented donkey milk. Nowadays, these acids are produced synthetically, making them suitable for vegans.

Which of these acids are best for our skin?
The best fruit acids for anti-aging purposes are glycol and lactic acid. They remove dead skin cells, stimulate new production and are very mild. The result is smooth and even skin. Salicylic acid is mostly used for pimples, as this fruit acid is fat-soluble and therefore has a better effect on very oily skin. A combination of both AHA and BHA is ideal.

My current evening routine includes a toner, a serum and a night cream, which are all enriched with fruit acids. Is this too much? No, but what's important is that you include at least one product with fruit acid in your daily routine. For sensitive skin, I recommend a cleansing foam or a serum in the evening because they're not oily and help prevent pimples. Rinse-off products are good because they don't stay on your skin for too long and still have an effect. In some cases, a tonic degreases your skin too much. Dermatologists and beauticians also offer fruit acid exfoliation. This is just like a boot camp for your skin. However, you'll need professional support from a trainer to guide you through the process of performing fruit acid exfoliation.

How important is the concentration of fruit acid in a product?
There are two central components: the concentration, i.e. the percentage, and the pH value of the acid. You can do a lot of damage with a 20% fruit acid solution if its pH value is low while a 70% well-buffered fruit acid solution might have no effect at all. This is particularly important when it comes to the fruit acid exfoliation I just mentioned. Products that are available without consulting a doctor or cosmetician aren't allowed to contain more than 2% salicylic acid.

How do I know if a product contains fruit acid?
Usually the word «fruit acid» is written on the packaging or the list of ingredients includes one the following names: glycolic acid, lactic acid or salicylic acid.

When shouldn’t I use fruit acid?
If you have eczema, open spots, sunburn or are spending time in a sunny country. As with retinol, without daily sun protection of at least SPF 30 and high UVA protection, you'll get more pigments and wrinkles. If you're not willing to apply sun cream every day, don't use fruit acids.

Face creams

Collistar CS Pure Actives - Glycolic Acid Rich Cream

50 ml, 24h cream

Face creams

i+m Naturkosmetik Wild Life Age Protect 24 H Cream

50 ml, 24h cream

Face cleansers

CHF34.70 CHF173.50/1l

Benton Aloe BHA

Face toner, 200 ml

Face creams

Collistar CS Pure Actives - Glycolic Acid Rich Cream

50 ml, 24h cream

Face creams

i+m Naturkosmetik Wild Life Age Protect 24 H Cream

50 ml, 24h cream

Face cleansers

CHF34.70 CHF173.50/1l

Benton Aloe BHA

Face toner, 200 ml

Next time you'll find out why you shouldn’t use Vaseline on your face. One click on the black «Follow author» button next to my profile means you’ll never miss another article. You can’t only follow me, but also Dr. Liv on her Instagram account.

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Natalie Hemengül

Senior Editor

Natalie.Hemenguel@digitecgalaxus.ch

As a massive Disney fan, I see the world through rose-tinted glasses. I worship series from the 90s and consider mermaids a religion. When I’m not dancing in glitter rain, I’m either hanging out at pyjama parties or sitting at my make-up table. P.S. I love you, bacon, garlic and onions.

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