A circular fibre is competing with Lyocell
The start-up Spinnova has developed a method to convert cellulose into textile fibres without the use of chemical solvents. The result? A 100% sustainable fibre made from wood waste.
Same same, but different: fibres made of wood aren’t a novelty in the fashion industry. They’re already used for semi-synthetic materials such as modal, viscose and the much more environmentally friendly lyocell. But the crux of the matter is, their production involves chemically dissolving the wood fibres. This is where the innovation of the Finnish start-up Spinnova comes in. Its patented technology enables cellulose to be spun into textile fibres without chemical processing. According to the company, the sustainable manufacturing method is based on a mechanical process that’s said to have a minimal impact on the environment. The only byproduct is supposed to be water vapour.
The scientist Juha Salmela of the Technical Research Centre of Finland had the idea for 100 percent sustainable fibre back in 2009. By chance, the cellulose expert discovered the similarities between «nanocellulose» and the protein of spider webs. Spinnova was born.
To produce the textile fibre, the start-up uses cellulose from FSC-certified wood to make it a circular product. In the production process, the finely ground pulp flows through a nozzle at a high pressure where the fibres rotate and align with the flow. This creates an elastic fibre network that, once it’s spun and dried, resembles a fluffy wool-like material. This is said to be 100 percent biodegradable and in no way inferior to wool in terms of insulation.
Just recently, the Finnish start-up was awarded the «ANDAM Innovation Award 2021». Spinnova's next coup is said to be a leather fabric made from leather waste. Again, I’m guessing the result will be same same, but different.
When I’m not exploring the depths of the sea as an open water diver, I enjoy plunging into the world of fashion. On the streets of Paris, Milan and New York is where I keep my eyes peeled for the latest trends. And I’ll show you how to take them from the catwalk to your everyday life.