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10 questions for a sun protection expert

5.7.2022

Translation: Katherine Martin

What does the plus sign on factor 50 sun cream mean? And what’s actually the point of SPF 100? When it comes to sunscreen, the question marks start piling up pretty fast. I asked an expert to shed some light on the matter.

Having a vague knowledge of something can be dangerous. Especially when it comes to health issues like sun protection. Which is why it’s all the more important to have unanswered questions addressed by people who understand the subject matter. I put my questions to Nathalie Berclaz, Scientific Director at L’Oréal Switzerland.

What should the sunscreen you’re buying be able to do?
Nathalie Berclaz: The most important criterion is the level of protection. I generally only buy sun protection products with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 50+ and a high level of protection against UVA radiation. The galenic formulation, i.e. the texture, is also really important to me. If you’re putting the product on your face, you want something that’s non-greasy, light and easy to apply. In fact, a sun cream is only good if I like wearing it and am happy to do so on a regular basis. After all, putting it on is part of my daily morning routine, just like brushing my teeth.

What does the plus sign on tubes of SPF 50+ stand for?
50+ means that the product has a sun protection factor of at least 60.

How significant is the difference between a factor 30 and a factor 50 cream?
Under standardised laboratory conditions, an SPF 30 absorbs about 96.7% of UV radiation, with an SPF 50 absorbing about 98%. At first glance, this seems to be almost the same amount, but that’s a fallacy. When it comes to our skin, the amount of radiation absorbed isn’t relevant. Instead, what counts is how much UV radiation actually gets into the skin. With an SPF 30, this is 3.3% of the radiation, whereas it’s 2% with an SPF 50. Looked at in proportion, this means your skin gets 65% more radiation with an SPF 30 than with a factor 50 sun cream.

How come we see SPF 100 so rarely, even though it’s available to buy?
Sun screen products with SPF 100 aren’t allowed to be marketed in the EU and Switzerland anymore. In 2006, the EU Commission recommended that sunscreen products should be advertised as having a maximum SPF of 50+. This falls into the category of «very high protection». This kind of recommendation gives manufacturers and consumers a standardised framework. Part of that framework involves limiting the range of SPFs that can be printed on the packaging. This makes it easier for consumers to compare different products. In general, sunscreen products are strictly regulated. These days, they need to display the circular UVA logo as well as the level of UVB protection (SPF). This means that the UVA protection level is at least one third of the SPF indicated on the product.

What are the most common mistakes we consumers make when it comes to sun protection?
Not applying enough sunscreen, forgetting to reapply it, and not wearing sunscreen on cloudy days, despite spending the day outside.

Guide
How much sunscreen does your face need?
by Natalie Hemengül

Which parts of the body are most often forgotten when we’re putting on sun cream?
Ears, lips, feet and toes. We also often overlook the fact that our hands are always exposed to the sun’s rays and actually need special attention.

Are there specific forms of sun protection products, such as sprays, sticks, oils, etc., that you’re critical of?
No. I think it’s important to have a broad range of sun production products available so that everyone can find their favourite one. Each type has its advantages. For instance, I always pop a sun stick in my jacket pocket or my kids’ pockets when we go skiing. They’re really handy. They’re small, they don’t leak and the protection can be easily reapplied when you’re on the ski lift.

Where do you stand on buying make-up with built-in SPF?
My opinion is: why not? Having said that, I don’t see it as a sun protection product. It’s more of an extra, the icing on the cake. Foundations also contain pigments that afford you a certain level of protection against solar radiation anyway, even if the packaging doesn’t indicate the SPF. But that shouldn’t stop you from putting a proper sunscreen on underneath.

What have you always wanted to say to people who tout coconut oil or other supposed alternatives as «sun protection»?
Coconut oil doesn’t protect against UV rays. Your skin will thank you for it in a few years at the very latest if you use a conventional sunscreen with at least average protection. Put your coconut oil on in the evening instead to take care of your skin.

Which sun protection trends will we be seeing in the future?
I think there’ll be more and more products designed for daily use. Thanks to modern UV filters, we’re better protected from UVA and very long-wave UVA rays, which we’re exposed to daily and can make our skin age prematurely. Sun screen is the best preventive anti-ageing product. Environmental aspects in terms of packaging and eco-friendly formulas (biodegradable ones for example) are becoming increasingly important.

Nathalie Berclaz is a trained chemist and has been working as the Scientific Director at L’Oréal Switzerland for almost 19 years. As an extension of the company’s Research and Innovation team, she ensures that the products launched by L’Oréal in Switzerland are legally compliant. She also supports and advises other departments on product ingredients, technology and product communication.

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Natalie Hemengül

Senior Editor

Natalie.Hemenguel@digitecgalaxus.ch

As a massive Disney fan, I see the world through rose-tinted glasses. I worship series from the 90s and consider mermaids a religion. When I’m not dancing in glitter rain, I’m either hanging out at pyjama parties or sitting at my make-up table. P.S. I love you, bacon, garlic and onions.

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