Tested: The kitchen robot for lazy cooks
17.7.2017
Translation: machine translated
The Moulinex Companion is a multifunctional food processor. The special thing about this appliance is that it can also cook! Thanks to its many automatic programmes, the 'robot' is designed to enable even novice cooks to experience culinary success.
Let's see how the thing performs in my home. I had to make the first joke before I even started using it: I didn't tell my wife about the upcoming product test.
Me: "You, someone's bringing a food processor round tonight."
Wife: "What?! We'll discuss that before we buy it!"
Me: "But it was soooo cheap!"
Wife: "That's really not right, you're taking it back!"
Me: "Why don't you have a look at them first?"
As I'm almost always travelling by bike, Filiz from HR brought me the boxes by car. Thank you Filiz! I dragged myself back to the flat with three huge boxes in my arms.
If you heard a horrified scream that could be heard in half of Zurich: it was my wife.
With our cramped kitchen, I knew in advance that the thing wouldn't stand a chance. Because the Moulinex Companion is big. Not only does it take up a lot of storage space, but I would also have to empty a kitchen cupboard just for the many accessories. Not only did I get the basic machine, but I also wanted to test the extensive accessory set.
The Companion can also do a lot: it belongs to the class of all-in-one machines and can not only grind and mix, but also knead, steam, stew and braise. There are predefined programmes for each function, which you can customise if you wish. Of course, the machine does not make a hob and oven superfluous; however, the machine can heat up to 130° and thus sweat onions immediately after chopping. Or let dough rise in the heat after kneading.
First of all, there was another annoyed grunt from me. "A million menus" promises the book with 100 starters, 100 main meals and 100 desserts, which is included as inspiration. Oh right: 100×100×100 = 1 million. Nice try, Moulinex Marketing! Then the "Tiptopf" has an incredible two million menus to offer.
I want to try that out
After all, while browsing through the pages, I discovered a few dishes that I would like to try. I particularly like the cream puffs! My mum used to make them sometimes - far too rarely! - baked them. Let's see if our little monster likes the dessert as much as I do.
The second thing I want to try is bread. Once I've brought one of these kneading-o-mats into the house, I want to find out whether the machine makes the job easier. This is where the Companion should be able to show off its advantages: Thanks to the cooking function, you can let the dough rise right in the machine.
Of course, a whole menu also needs to be on the menu. After all, Moulinex advertises that you can do several things at the same time thanks to various attachments. I'm already curious to see whether and how the project will work out logistically.
The test
The cream puffs
While writing this, I realised that they are more commonly called "Ofechüechli" in Switzerland. My mum called them cream puffs, and that's why they're called that now. The dough was actually made in no time at all:
- Melt the butter
- Mix with the flour to form a greasy lump
- Wash out the mould (and cool)
- Pour the batter back in, pour in 4 eggs through the opening in the lid
- Make mounds on the baking tray with a tablespoon
- Place in the oven for 20 - 25 minutes
In a speed run, you should be able to whip up the cream puffs in half an hour. The recipe actually said to use a tablespoon to make mounds of dough. For a more visually appealing result, I'll work with a piping bag next time.
The cream puffs can also be eaten as they are. However, as they rise and are hollow inside and not too sweet, you can fill them with whipped cream, vanilla cream or, if necessary, Nutella.
The bread
The bread was a failure at first. I had forgotten to attach a holder to the bottom of the pan. The warm yeast water ran out the bottom of the machine. I cursed heartily at the appliance and - once I had found the fault - at myself. At least I was able to check that the machine was actually quite easy to clean.
In the second attempt, the bread turned out quite well. I was a little surprised that the machine soon just let the dough go round and round. I actually think of kneading as something else:
But it still tasted good, at least no worse than when kneaded by hand. The practical thing is that the dough is warmed at 30° for 40 minutes after "kneading" and rises nicely.
The menu
The Companion advertises the fact that you can do several things at the same time. The attachments can be stacked to form an impressive tower. Phew, let's see how I do logistically. I don't think that's my strong point when it comes to cooking, where I prefer not to do too many things at once. I set myself the following menu:
- Ratatouille
- Boeuf bourgignon
- Rice
I failed in my attempt to do everything at the same time. The ratatouille turned out okay, but I needed the machine to chop and sauté the onions. The vegetables never made it into the steam part of the machine. The boeuf bourgignon also turned out decently. The machine really came into its own here, as the dish could be stewed for hours. And yes, I admit it, I cooked the rice separately in a pan.
Conclusion
The Companion did a satisfactory job with the menus. There's nothing to complain about. Cleaning is stress-free and all parts are dishwasher-safe. As I mentioned above, I realised even before the test that the machine wouldn't be staying with us. It's simply too big and we wouldn't use it often enough to make the hefty price tag worthwhile.
Who is the Companion suitable for? Our household is obviously not one of them.
I think the primary target group is people who want to (learn to) cook but don't have the confidence to do so. The automatic programmes and foolproof recipe book will be a good help for them. Once you know the various programmes and attachments, there's hardly anything that can go wrong.
As the appliance is large and expensive, you have to be prepared to get involved with the all-in-one appliance. It only makes sense if you use it consistently. If you only need the chopping function on a regular basis, a blender is cheaper and better for you. If you only want to knead dough, you're better off with a KitchenAid, which was made precisely for this purpose.
Moulinex provided us with the appliance for the test. Merci!
Aurel Stevens
Chief Editor
aurel.stevens@digitecgalaxus.chI'm the master tamer at the flea circus that is the editorial team, a nine-to-five writer and 24/7 dad. Technology, computers and hi-fi make me tick. On top of that, I’m a rain-or-shine cyclist and generally in a good mood.
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