

Decisive improvements with compromises: the new grater from Zyliss
The Zyliss drum grater has been around since 1961. Now it has been released in a new version with many useful improvements. Unfortunately, it is no longer "Swiss Made".
The following chicken-and-egg question has been on my mind for a few days now. Which came first? The classic "mixed salad" or the Zyliss drum grater? I'm talking about the starter salad in Swiss pickles, where the components are individually draped on the plate: Carrots, celery, radish and beetroot, grated and dressed with various sauces. As Swiss as the Zyliss drum grater. Various versions of the kitchen appliance have been on sale from the Bern-based company since 1961, and since then the popularity of mixed salads is likely to have skyrocketed. With the turn of a crank, the grater chops ingredients into slices, sticks or fine strips.
More than 60 years after its market launch, Zyliss has improved the drum grater in key areas and named it Gourmet. A better angle and a higher output edge make work easier. What has remained is the practical suction cup on the base, which allows the grater to stand securely.

Source: Simon Balissat
The Gourmet has grown slightly, but is slimmer than its predecessor. It seems to me that the funnel is also slightly larger, but it now has a protruding rail on the previously smooth edge that guides the plunger.

Source: Simon Balissat
The rubbing force
The principle has not changed. I insert one of the three drums supplied and screw on the plastic crank. The food goes into the top of the funnel, and a few turns later the potato is sliced for the gratin or grated into pieces for the rösti.
This is quick and easy, and I save time compared to the classic square grater, especially for larger quantities. A small advantage for scatterbrains like me: the finger berries stay on thanks to the pestle.

Source: Simon Balissat
Now the changes come into play, which in the car industry would probably be called "model maintenance". A slightly steeper angle ensures that the chopped food flies out of the grater better. Thanks to the higher output edge, larger bowls can also be placed under the grater. Disadvantage: if I place a plate instead of a bowl, some of the food flies over the plate, which was less of a problem with the previous model.

Source: Simon Balissat
This rubs me the wrong way
Compared to the last model, Zyliss supplies one drum less. In the basic configuration I find one fine, one coarse and the cutting drum. While the Bircher drum was still part of the standard package in the previous model, it is now available as an option. As are the julienne and purée drums.

Source: Simon Balissat
Less accessories for almost the same price. Is this a hidden price increase? "No, we are an international company, but only our Swiss customers use the Bircher drum. That's why it's now available as an option," says Anita Caruso, Key Account Manager at DK Household Brands, to which Zyliss belongs. The recommended retail price of the old grater is 159 francs, that of the new grater 139 francs. If you don't need the Bircher drum, you save money. Everyone else pays a small surcharge. The surcharge for the grater would be around 25 francs.
What also made me suspicious is the imprint "Cleverly Swiss" where it used to say "Swiss Made". Zyliss actually had to relocate production from Switzerland to China for cost reasons, according to an enquiry. That leaves me with mixed feelings.
The answer to the question of which came first, mixed salads or the Zyliss drum grater, I unfortunately couldn't answer either. One thing is certain: as long as the drum grater is around, so long will the mixed salad be around.
In a nutshell
Drum roll for a small upgrade
Pro
- everything is quickly grated
- Larger bowls also fit underneath
- works even better than its predecessor
- lower RRP than the previous version
Contra
- Only three drums included in the scope of delivery
- manufactured in China instead of Switzerland
When I flew the family nest over 15 years ago, I suddenly had to cook for myself. But it wasn’t long until this necessity became a virtue. Today, rattling those pots and pans is a fundamental part of my life. I’m a true foodie and devour everything from junk food to star-awarded cuisine. Literally. I eat way too fast.