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On the trail of the Elfstedentocht by water bike
by Siri Schubert
Swimming in a volcano, heat and simmering conflict
28.9.2020
Translation: machine translated
Lous and Julen dream of a cycling trip along the ancient Silk Road. How far can they go? Nobody knows. Here we tell you all about their adventures. In eastern Turkey, our duo come up against invisible borders.
The two cyclists discovered that on asphalt heated to 59 degrees, icy water reaches body temperature in 17 minutes. After 32 minutes, you could have tea. Even the peaks seem to melt in this furnace. Their gentle slopes line up one behind the other, giving a misleading impression of their true altitude.
Escalader
The thirst for experience remains greater than the desire for refreshment. Lous and Julen set off at four in the morning to reach Mount Nemrut, which rises to 2150 metres and whose summit is part shrine, part burial ground and now also part national park.
Beyond the heat or the altitude, one obstacle still stands in their way: it's not the gods, but the park wardens who ask for a small offering, namely a few Turkish lira to pay for the entrance. Our two tourists didn't have any cash on them, but the problem was quickly solved by modern means via smartphone. So they can go and admire the thousand-year-old stone statues of Zeus, Apollo or Antiochos.
Refueling
After reaching the summit, it's time to come back down. It feels good, too. The petrol stations along the way have no historical value, but are a kind of modern oasis. Here, in the middle of nowhere, you can find everything you need: cold drinks, food and gas for the camping stove. "It's perfect for spending the night," explains Julen. "They're open 24 hours a day and they're safe places."
The two accomplices discover this possibility in Siverek. They are welcomed, given chairs and a dog joins them. Lous and Julen can recharge their batteries. It's a simple life, and a good one. Even if not everything is easy in this region. There are invisible borders. They really feel it for the first time when they arrive in Diyarbakır.
Be careful
Gonfler
Breathing
Lous and Julen are tirelessly asked if they feel safe and what they think of Turkey. "People worry about the impression foreigners have of Turkey," says Lous. For our travellers, the experiences have been positive. Only the dogs are hostile. The next night, they lay siege to the tent, barking aggressively, while Lous and Julen remain motionless inside.
Excitement
Fevzi, who runs a small shop at the end of the road and feeds the local bears, is also an unusual character. "You look tired, very very tired!" he says as he greets Julen before cheerfully tossing Lous, "And you are big monkey!"
It's a strange and strangely beautiful encounter with this amazing man who sets up bear protection around the travellers' tent. They invite Fevzi to share their dinner before he takes them to bathe in the crater's hot spring on this full moon night.
"I've never had to follow so many instructions to go swimming," jokes Lous. Left foot, right foot. Fevzi tells them where to put their feet to move forward and looks after his visitors until Lous and Julen go to bed after drinking tea around the fire. "Experiences like this are unforgettable, this man was so interesting and engaging," exclaims Lous. A bath in a volcano, a memory for life.
Lous and Julen continue their journey. Find out more about their adventures in the next episode.
Michael Restin
Senior Editor
Michael.Restin@digitecgalaxus.chSimple writer and dad of two who likes to be on the move, wading through everyday family life. Juggling several balls, I'll occasionally drop one. It could be a ball, or a remark. Or both.
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