Nathalie Schweizer has achieved what many designers dream of: she has made a name for herself with her swimwear. Now she is designing pieces for a museum. A journey through time in the centre of Zurich.
I'm standing in front of the studio of designer Nathalie Schweizer and I'm surprised: the house number 182 doesn't lead me to a supposed creative workshop, but to a modern shop on Weststrasse in Zurich. Half of it is her shop and studio and the other half is her husband's furniture system showroom.
One-Woman-Show
Swimsuits from the old days
The large glass door at Weststrasse 182 slams shut behind me. I may be in modern Zurich, but after my visit to Nathalie Schweizer I feel like I've travelled back 90 years. Swimwear from back then for the woman of today. A beautiful concept that works in my opinion.
When I’m not exploring the depths of the sea as an open water diver, I enjoy plunging into the world of fashion. On the streets of Paris, Milan and New York is where I keep my eyes peeled for the latest trends. And I’ll show you how to take them from the catwalk to your everyday life.
The Zurich native is proof that the dream of owning your own fashion label is possible even without a degree in fashion design from a university of applied sciences. The trained nursery school teacher came to her brand in a roundabout way. After a four-year stopover as a flight attendant at Swissair, the then 27-year-old trained as a tailor. And began designing women's clothing. "At some point, I reached a point where I didn't feel like it anymore, because the fashion industry is not an easy place to work," says Nathalie. After a forced break of six months, she started tailoring again because she had discovered a niche: As she loves swimming, she wanted to specialise in swimwear. That was ten years ago. [[image:22556426 "In October 2018, Nathalie (left) moved into the shop on Weststrasse."]]
Since then, a lot has changed in the industry. While customers used to play it safe and prefer to try on bikinis & Co. directly in the shop, the number of online orders is increasing. On the one hand, this has to do with the inhibition threshold: some women prefer to try on their clothes in familiar surroundings. In the case of a bikini, this desire is even greater due to a false sense of shame. On the other hand, mail order is a convenient service that makes it possible to shop outside of opening hours. "However, I receive most online orders from customers who already wear my articles and know their size." Exchanges are always possible for unworn articles. There is still a problem with orders from abroad, as Swiss customs can put a spanner in the works with additional costs. [[image:22413574 "The shop also serves as a warehouse. Schweizer ships her swimwear from here. This works because she designs a touch of nothing."]]
Swiss designs a new collection every year. Older ones stay. In winter, sketch papers and patterns fly around her studio. The sewing machine rattles every minute as she sews prototypes. She then takes the samples to the production facility in northern Italy, where she sits down with the in-house tailor and discusses her ideas and wishes. "I make my prototypes in one size. These are then adapted to the different sizes by the production department," says the fashion designer.
In the summer months, office work is the order of the day. "I do everything myself: From bookkeeping and sales to delivering the parcels." In the studio on Weststrasse, I discover beige cotton bags in which the models are sent. And a pair of bikini bottoms with a cut in the crotch. "A customer has just come to me in despair because her child has cut her swimming trunks with scissors." [[image:22352382 "Schweizer can now make a living from her swimwear, her timeless styles are sporty and elegant."]]
Nathalie's designs are simple and modern. Her range is small but mighty and can be combined as the mood takes you. In other words, you buy the top and bottom of a bikini separately. So you can vary your look. Another reason is the fit: many women are not the same size in the upper and lower body. One of the bestsellers is the "Cross" model, which has crossed straps at the back. By loosening or tightening the straps, the support of the bust and the width can be individually adjusted. Nathalie answers the question of whether she is inspired by trends in the affirmative. "In principle, I sew what I like, but trends are also important. They influence me non-stop." Whether in films or fashion magazines: as soon as she recognises a trend, she applies it to her swimwear. It can also just be a matter of details.
The reason for my visit to Schweizer is the special exhibition "Mermaids and beach boys. Hanro swimwear of the 1930s" at the "Museum.BL" in Liestal. Everything there currently revolves around swimwear from the past. On the occasion of this exhibition, the designer was asked by the museum whether she would like to create a new interpretation of Hanro swimming costumes. Schweizer was immediately hooked. In December 2017, she received the definitive go-ahead. [[image:22375783 "At the exhibition «Badenixen und Strandburschen. Hanro swimwear of the 1930s» is all about design, advertising and the zeitgeist of Hanro swimwear. Image: Museum.BL"]]
For the four-piece "Madeleine" line, consisting of a swimming costume with a low back and a bikini top that is combined with a panty or high-waist bottoms, the Zurich-based designer has taken inspiration from the Hanro archives. The name of the collection is a tribute to Madeleine Kriesemer-Handschin, the daughter of the director of the textile factory. At the age of 17, Kriesemer-Handschin took over from her late father. Hanro swimwear was created under her management. At that time, swimming costumes were still made from wool. Madeleine had stretchy threads made from Pirelli rubber developed, which were integrated into the fabric - a novelty.
"I wanted my collection to have a retro flair, but still be wearable and modern. When browsing through the company archives, I noticed striped knitting patterns and simple cutting solutions," continues Nathalie Schweizer. In order to pick up on the woollen character of her pieces, she went in search of a manufacturer of jacquard knitwear for swimwear, which she finally found in France. [[image:22352370 "The inner lining of the Madeleine swimming costume has an elasticated band underelastic is sewn into the inner lining of the Madeleine swimsuit below the bust to provide additional support. The plain-coloured straps were typical of the Hanro brand."]]
I notice that the bust sections of her bikinis and swimming costumes don't have any cups or boning built in. When asked about this, Schweizer explains that she simply doesn't like them. This is also the reason why she hardly carries any models in size XL. "Above a certain cup size, women prefer cups or pads that provide support." However, she is aware that the demand exists and is already working on a solution. "Preferably a cupless one," she reveals with a grin.
