Surferboy

Books are like waves: sometimes you have to wait a long time for the good ones. Steve wants to become a surfer - one of those demigods who seem to walk on water and conquer the waves, in short: defy the elements. For a valley rat from San Fernando with a fear of the vast ocean, this is no easy task. In his encounters with aggressive locals, shrewd surfboard designers, love-hungry surf groupies, and stoned big wave chasers, he learns about both the humorous and the darker sides of the California surf dream. With enthusiasm and ease, "Surferboy" tells a story of friendship, coming of age, and the fascination of surfing - while also imparting a wealth of knowledge that rivals any surf guide. As the world's first pure surf novel, the book has now achieved cult status.