Why do my lips feel dry as chalk?
10.3.2026
Translation: Veronica Bielawski
Chapped lips aren’t just a winter problem – sometimes, your lipstick is to blame. Dermatologist Maximilian Becker explains which ingredients can be drying and what people with allergies should look out for.
One reel is all it takes – you’ve just gotta have that lipstick! When it arrives on your doorstep, you immediately rip it open to give your new fave product a whirl. But the magic fades fast. Just a half hour later, your lips already feel taut and dry, as if you’d coated them in chalk. Why does this always happen?
In fact, this has happened to me two whole times in the past few months! Now I’m on a mission to find out what causes this – and whether a quick look at the ingredients list can help avoid the disappointment. I spoke to Dr Maximilian Becker, a specialist in dermatology and venereology at Dermanence in Zurich.
Dr Becker, let’s start with the basics: why do we get chapped lips in the first place?
Dr Maximilian Becker: There are two main reasons: biology and the environment. The skin on your lips is much thinner than on other parts of the body and has fewer sebaceous glands. That means the protective lipid layer is weaker and moisture evaporates more quickly. Then there’s the cold, dry air in winter. And UV radiation can dry out your lips even more, for example, when skiing in the mountains. Sometimes there are other causes too, such as iron or vitamin deficiencies or certain medications.
Source: Dermanence
And what effect do the products you use have?
The effect can be significant. Alongside nourishing ingredients, many skincare and cosmetic products also contain additives for colour, fragrance, texture or long wear. Some of these can dry out your lips even more.
Which ingredients are you talking about?
Long-lasting lipsticks often contain alcohol as an auxiliary ingredient, which serves to bind and stabilise the product. The problem is that alcohol can draw moisture out of the lip skin and promote dryness. On the ingredients list, it may appear under different names: alcohol (ethanol) or isopropyl alcohol.
Are there other substances besides alcohol that can dry out the lips?
Absolutely. Retinol, for example. While it’s effective as an anti-ageing ingredient, it can cause dryness as a side effect – and that matters even more on the lips, where there’s very little sebum to begin with. Then there are surfactants – like sodium lauryl sulfate – you’ll find in cleansers, shampoo or toothpaste. They dissolve oils and can reduce the protective film on your lips.
So it’s worth paying attention to alcohol and surfactants?
Yes, definitely – especially in lip products. It’s always a trade-off. Extreme staying power – say 72 hours – is often made possible by auxiliary ingredients that aren’t ideal for the skin.
From a dermatological point of view, I’d avoid alcohol and surfactants, especially if you’re prone to dry or sensitive lips.
Source: Tony Litvyak, Unsplash
One of the lipsticks that dried out my lips contained various silicones. Were they the culprits?
Silicones are meant to create an occlusive, sealing layer so water doesn’t evaporate as easily. That’s generally a good thing. However, some people don’t tolerate silicones well, which is why I think there are better alternatives. If you’re prone to dry lips, it’s best to use a lip care product alongside lipstick that forms a protective barrier while also retaining moisture. Vaseline, fats and waxes work well as a barrier, while glycerine and hyaluronic acid, for example, help retain moisture.
What about ingredients that tingle on the lips, such as menthol or salicylic acid? Or flavouring components like mint, citrus or cinnamon? Are these all red flags, too?
Yes, tingling or flavoured additives like these can irritate the lips, dry them out or trigger allergies, but it very much depends on the person. Those who are prone to contact allergies or sensitive skin are more likely to react. Others tolerate them without issues. So they’re not automatically red flags across the board. Salicylic acid in particular can be irritating at high concentrations or when used too often.
So some people react more strongly to certain ingredients. Who needs to be especially careful?
Patients with known allergies – especially contact allergies – need to be very vigilant. If their lips come into contact with an allergen, the reaction can be severe. That’s why they should check the ingredients list carefully every time. People with eczema also need to be more careful: their skin is often drier and more sensitive. Ingredients that further irritate or dry out the skin can make symptoms much worse.
Is it worth opting for natural cosmetics instead?
There’s no blanket answer to that. From a dermatological point of view, natural cosmetics aren’t automatically better – «natural» doesn’t necessarily mean «better tolerated». Natural substances such as peppermint oil or eucalyptus oil can irritate or dry out the lips. Plant-based fragrances also have a relatively high allergenic potential. People with allergies or eczema in particular need to be cautious. When it comes to sustainability, natural cosmetics can still make sense with their biodegradable ingredients, fewer problematic residues during manufacturing and, depending on the label, lack of animal testing. Those are all positive aspects.
Are there any ingredients you’d consider a no-go in lip products?
No, there isn’t a universal no-go. What matters is individual tolerance. Many people do fine even with potentially drying ingredients; otherwise those products wouldn’t be on the market. But if you have very sensitive or dry lips as a baseline, you should be careful when it comes to strongly mattifying products and long-lasting lipstick, as they can dry out the lips considerably.
Are lip scrubs and lip masks useful?
I’d exercise caution there. The skin of your lips is very thin, and exfoliating can quickly backfire, as can constant licking or biting. Small cracks form easily and can become inflamed. Lip masks only work in the short term at best, and even then you should check the ingredients, as some additives can irritate or dry out your lips.
Can you overdo lip care?
As with anything, you can overdo lip care too. If you keep reapplying product constantly, it might cause a kind of dependency effect. But especially in colder weather outdoors, regular care throughout the day makes sense – just not every few minutes.
Do you have a secret tip for healthy, soft lips?
From a dermatological point of view: a lip balm with UV protection. It’ll protect your lips from drying out further and helps prevent UV-related damage, such as fine lines, cracks and irritation. But regular care with well-tolerated products is also key. The classic is Vaseline. Panthenol – known from Bepanthen cream – also often works very well as lip care. In natural cosmetics, shea butter or beeswax can work well too.
Header image: B L via Unsplash
Coya Vallejo Hägi
Freelance Editor
hallo@cvhtext.de«I want it all! The terrifying lows, the dizzying highs, the creamy middles!» – these words spoken by an iconic American TV celebrity could have been mine. It's a take on life I also apply to my job. What does this mean in concrete terms? That every story has its charm; no matter how small, large, exciting or trivial. The more eclectic the mix, the better.
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