Patrick’s Perfumes – frankincense for that mystical scent
5.3.2024
Translation: Patrik Stainbrook
Perfumes are works of art, perfumers are artists and I’m a collector of their creations. Today, we’re taking a closer look at frankincense. Amouage, Frédéric Malle and Laboratorio Olfattivo each interpret the mystical fragrance in their own way.
According to scripture, the three wise men brought extremely precious gifts worthy of a king to the infant Jesus – gold stands for money and wealth, myrrh refers to sacrifice and frankincense symbolises prayer. Today, terms such as olibanum and frankincense are used synonymously for frankincense resin. Extracted from the Boswellia tree, it’s beloved for its sublime fragrance and phytotherapeutic healing properties. This refers to the healing, alleviation and prevention of illnesses and complaints using medicinal plants or their parts, (page in German) such as flowers, roots and leaves or components such as essential oils.
Source: Shutterstock/Oleg Znamenskiy
The biggest producer of frankincense today is Somalia, with other cultivators in Ethiopia, India, Sudan, Yemen and Oman. In Europe, frankincense is mainly associated with Catholic churches. In the liturgy, it symbolises purification, worship and prayer ascending to God (article in German).
Different species of Boswellia trees produce different types of frankincense and different smells. According to perfumers, Boswellia sacra has a fresh, citrusy and therefore stimulating scent, while Boswellia serrata conveys a feeling of serenity with its warm, spicy aroma (page in German). If the frankincense is of high quality, a cloud of smoke develops when lit, unlocking many more aromas. As a result, perfumers often combine frankincense with vanilla, rose oil, myrrh and wood extracts, imbuing their fragrances with the desired effect.
Source: Shutterstock/JurateBuiviene
Amouage Epic Man
Randa Hammami (profile in German) is the nose behind this woody-spicy fragrance. She’s also created several fragrances for Guerlain. In 2009, Hammami developed Epic Man for the brand from Oman. This eau de parfum isn’t easy to understand and can be quite challenging. However, this isn’t due to the frankincense, but rather the cumin and castoreum combination, two more distinct notes.
Natural castoreum is a secretion obtained from beaver glands. However, today’s perfume industry generally uses a synthetic version. Nevertheless, the result is a brute, savage fragrance. Combined with caraway, a sweat-like aroma is often mentioned, which Epic Man also exudes. Not for everyone then, maybe only for truly epic scent explorers. I haven’t quite found my way with Epic Man yet either.
Frédéric Malle Monsieur
Edition de Parfum Frédéric Malle’s Monsieur is the most elegant of the three frankincense fragrances presented here. It was created in 2015 by Bruno Jovanovic (profile in German). He’s also worked for Amouage and designed Opus XII – Rose Incense. Monsieur surprises with rum and mandarin top notes.
On Frédéric Malle’s website, I read about this eau de parfum: «This perfume reveals the style behind impeccable appearance: patchouli is the pinstripe suit, with a cocktail of rum absolute and mandarin in hand, for a distinct flavor of late nights in dark corners; as cedar, suede and incense are the underlying sensual pulse, warmed by vanilla in a small acknowledgment of intimacy.» This fragrance works perfectly on a warm summer evening. Important: dress it up. It doesn’t go with shorts and flip-flops.
Laboratorio Olfattivo Nerotic
This woody, aromatic fragrance has been around since 2016. Cécile Zarokian (profile in German) is the nose behind it. She recently also developed a perfume for Amouage, Opus XIV – Royal Tobacco. As the name suggests, Nerotic plays with sexuality. A sensual eau de parfum that opens with red fruit, bergamot and grapefruit, moves on to saffron, coriander and geranium and finally ends with leather, smoke and woody notes.
Laboratorio Olfattivo markets Nerotic as a unisex fragrance, but it’s rather masculine, in my opinion. It has its best moments on nights out, dancing until the morning comes. It doesn’t matter whether you wear it with a suit and shirt or cargo pants and a T-shirt.
My name is Patrick. Bardelli, not Süskind like the author of the book Perfume. Nevertheless, I’m also a great lover of perfumes and I regularly write about good and bad fragrances. Want to enjoy my literary odour? Follow my author profile. And remember: always follow your nose.
Header image: Shutterstock/VIRTEXIE
Patrick Bardelli
Senior Editor
Patrick.Bardelli@digitecgalaxus.chFrom radio journalist to product tester and storyteller, jogger to gravel bike novice and fitness enthusiast with barbells and dumbbells. I'm excited to see where the journey'll take me next.
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